Sampler Class: Foundation Piecing Part 3

New York Compass
New York Compass

We are midway through the foundation piecing class. This is a long tutorial, but there are a lot of steps and I want all of the parts to be clear. This would be a great tutorial for a video, but A) I don’t have a crew and B) I don’t do video.

This segment discusses more foundation piecing. In order to get to this point, you should have completed parts 1 and 2. All of the supplies are listed in Part 1

Remember our goal:

NY Compass Outline
NY Compass Outline

Next, we need to foundation piece the small strip called Section D.

Cut fabric
Cut fabric
4 Pieces of fabric
4 Pieces of fabric

Cut 4 pieces of fabric that coordinate with the fabrics of your block. The pieces should be about 2.5″x 1.75″, which is generous. You may be able to use scraps for these pieces. (Please ignore the messy cutting table)

Place fabric on pattern
Place fabric on pattern

As you did in Part 2, you will work on placing 2 fabrics on the line between D1 & D2 with about a quarter inch hanging over into D2 as a seam allowance. Note the printed part of the pattern (the lines on which you sew) are face down for this step.

Pin fabric
Pin fabric

I like to pin the first piece of fabric to my pattern. It helps keep the fabric from shifting as I work on the second piece of fabric. Note the printed part of the pattern (the lines on which you sew) are face up for this step.

Position 2d piece of fabric
Position 2d piece of fabric

Flip Section D back over and position the second piece of fabric over the first.

Ready to Sew
Ready to Sew

When you have both of your pieces placed like you like them, pin in place. I like to use thin pins. Your piece should now look like the above photo.

Sew on line
Sew on line
Sew on the line (#2)
Sew on the line (#2)

With the applique’ foot on your machine. Sew on the line between D1 & D2. Do not cross the perpendicular line at the top or bottom. Back stitch one stitch at the beginning and the end.

Section D sewn
Section D sewn

Once you have sewn on the line, your piece should look like the above photo.

Press first sewn pieces
Press first sewn pieces

Open up both pieces and make sure they cover D1 & D2. Once you are convinced that you have covered both D1 & D2 with your fabric and there is a 1/4″ seam allowance, press your piece. Press with the pattern on top. Note the pattern is face up and you can see the sewing lines. (Nota bene: if you have taped your pattern, use a press cloth so that you do not get melted tape on your iron)

Sewn, pressed Section D back
Sewn, pressed Section D back

Flip your Section D over again, so you are ready to trim.

Ready to trim
Ready to trim

Lay your pattern, with sewn fabric, pattern side up (fabric down) on your cutting mat. The inside part of the curve will be facing your body. You may want to flip Section D around if you are left handed.

Fold the longer piece of the pattern over to the left using the seam line as the fold line. This will expose the fabric that will be your seam allowance.

Place ruler on sewn line
Place ruler on sewn line

Line up your ruler’s 1/4″ mark on the seam/fold line and trim your seam allowance to 1/4″.

Trim
Trim
Trimmed
Trimmed

Trim seam allowance to 1/4″.

Ready to press pieces into place
Ready to press pieces into place

Go back to the ironing board and position your piece so the fabric is up, pattern side down  and smooth the fabric towards D2, lightly finger pressing.

Press towards D2
Press towards D2
Press towards D2
Press towards D2

Take the piece to the iron and press carefully towards D2.

Place D3 fabric
Place D3 fabric

Place your next fabric with the longer part towards D2 and the future seam allowance closer to D3. Hold the whole piece up to the light to make sure your placement is correct.

Place D3 fabric in place
Place D3 fabric in place

Pin in place.

Get ready to sew on the line between D2 & D3.

Sewn D3
Sewn D3

Once sewn, your piece should look like the photo above.

Check to make sure fabric covers D3
Check to make sure fabric covers D3

Check to make sure your fabric covers pattern section D3. You do this by folding the fabric over and looking to see that you have about 1/4″ on all sides.

Pattern side up
Pattern side up

Now, get ready to trim. Put your piece on the cutting mat pattern side up.

Folder pattern back
Folder pattern back

Fold your pattern to the left again, like you did before.

Ready to trim
Ready to trim
Trimmed
Trimmed

Line up your ruler’s 1/4″ mark on the seam/fold line and trim your seam allowance to 1/4″.

Avoid the bump
Avoid the bump

See that bump in the photo above? You do not want that bump to show once you have pieced D4 on to the parts of Section D you have already pieced. Press again, this time towards D4. Avoid the bump by pressing!

Press towards D4
Press towards D4

Press towards D4. No ironing!

We are heading to the home stretch!

Position D5
Position D5

Position your last piece as you have done before. It is going to look at little weird and out of alignment, because you are working with a curve. Remember to position the fabric so it covers D5 plus 1/4″ seam allowance. Pay no attention to the edges of the other pieces, such as D4, that you have already sewn.

Check placement
Check placement

It is easier for me to see whether or not piece D5 was in the right position by pinning it. Note, I would pin it on the pattern side to sew, because then I can see where the pin is in relation to where my sewing machine foot and needle are. the pin in the photo is temporary.

Sewn D5
Sewn D5

Once you have the placement finalized, go ahead and sew.

Fold back pattern and prepare to trim seam allowance
Fold back pattern and prepare to trim seam allowance
Align ruler for 1/4" seam allowance
Align ruler for 1/4″ seam allowance

Now you have to fold back the pattern one last time and prepare to trim the seam allowance.

D5 trimmed!
D5 trimmed!

Trim!

Section D Complete!
Section D Complete!

Now your piece is done. Fold back the D5 fabric and press. Place your ruler on the lines at the end of the pattern and trim a 1/4″ seam allowance. I know you can do this without photos.

Now you have to trim the curved parts of Section D

Untrimmed Section D
Untrimmed Section D

It is too difficult to sew the untrimmed Section D, so you will have to trim.

Dots mark 1/4"
Dots mark 1/4″

To trim, mark 1/4″ away from the dark line. The dots in the photo above mark 1/4″. I have trimmed the straight ends with a rotary cutter and I am ready to play “dot to dot” with my scissors. I am going to cut from dot to dot to create a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Section D
Section D

On to part 4!

Tips:

  • If you have to rip out stitches, rip them out from the fabric side, not the paper side.
  • Pay attention to putting the next piece on the foundation.
  • Avoid the bump by pressing!

Resources:

Star Sampler: 4″ Stars

4" Stars - Late March 2013
4″ Stars – Late March 2013

Here are my little group of 4″ stars. This group is not growing as fast as I would like it to grow, but they all look great. I am very pleased with the way they look together. Even the ones that are running towards red-violet add a spark to the group.

There are two things annoying about these stars:

  1. There are not enough of them and they are not reproducing fast enough. Have I told you I need 89 of them? No? I need 89. I am not even a quarter of the way there.
  2. I have a nice little violet star on my design wall half sewed. Why half sewed? I lost 2 of the Flying Geese I need to finish this one star. They HAVE to be around here somewhere. I even cleaned up my cutting table. No luck. I can make more. I probably have enough fabric, but really. To where could 2 Flying Geese have flown?

Also, take a look at the original Quilt-a-long instructions. You can see all the posts on this topic by searching the tag “Star Sampler.”

Star Sampler: Week 3 – 8″ Blocks

Basic Star
Basic Star

I did something a little different for this week’s blocks. I didn’t have a lot of time last weekend, so I cut the pieces for each block out in advance and had all the pieces on the design wall ready to sew. I did this, because I thought I might have a few minutes here and there to see, but really I only had various bits of time to cut. I didn’t have any sewing time until late in the day on Friday. I am not sure if cutting in advance made any difference.

I added in the Michael Miller teal dot fabric, which I also used on the sewing machine cover I made a couple of years ago. I needed some more dots and I really wanted to use this fabric in a quilt I could admire regularly.

At least I thought I cut all the pieces! Part way through I realized that I still needed to cut out the last star.

Aunt Addie's Star
Aunt Addie’s Star

Aunt Addie’s Star looks a little backgroundy to me, but I think it will be ok. What does “Backgroundy” mean? I think it means that that big square in the center gives a look of a lot of background and not too much star. I think it is fine, but I will have to look at it in context and see if I need to make others with more background or that see through look. One of the Rising Stars has background in the center.

I do have all the stars on my design wall and think they are looking fine together.

Taj Mahal Star
Taj Mahal Star

The Taj Mahal Star will go really well with the Austin Star from last week. It has, as you can see, the same kind of corner treatment. I need to find one more block or make another one of these two so the quilt looks on balance. I like, as I have said before, to use threes – three of the same blocks, three pieces of the same fabric, three design elements, etc to make the quilt look right. You can use 5 or some other odd number, but I use three as my starting point. I am pretty sure I talk about this concept in more depth in the Design Series. Perhaps the episode on Balance?

Square in a Square Star
Square in a Square Star

Finally, I made the Square in a Square Star. While I was cutting for it, I was thinking of the green dot I talked about in the last post about the Star Sampler. I decided to use it in the center of this star. I wanted to make sure that there was enough of it in the quilt so one or two pieces didn’t look weird. It works GREAT, because it is enclosed and not touching the background.

I also like the Square in a Square pattern. I think it looks really good in the Sawtooth Star format.

I finished all the blocks on Saturday and started cutting for the next Basic Star.

TFQ has already selected blocks for Week 4, so I need to get going on those.

Also, take a look at the original Quilt-a-long instructions. You can see all of my posts on this topic by searching the tag “Star Sampler.”

Star Sampler: Week 2 8″ Blocks

I just realized it has been about two weeks since I posted about the Star Sampler. The last post was March 10. It is not an abandoned project and I have been working on the blocks. I know the week of March 11 was really busy for me. I had two meetings in the evenings that week and must have gotten off track with writing about the blocks.

Hourglass Star v.2
Hourglass Star v.2

The first thing I did last week was redo the Hourglass Star block. The previous version didn’t work. I used that great yellow-green dot for the arms and it was too light. I had two of the centers, so I used the same center and just put a Michael Miller Dumb Dot as the arms.

I think that yellow-green has to be contained on the inside of a block. I think it is too close to the background to work effectively next to it.

If I keep screwing up blocks. I’ll have a second quilt on the back!

Checkerboard Star
Checkerboard Star

I included some of the yellow-green in the Checkerboard Star and you can see how well it does enclosed by other fabrics. I have to keep that in mind as I move forward on the rest of the blocks.

I saw TFQ’s version of this star on Flickr and noticed that she lined up the fabrics she used for the arms so they were the same.

Plaid Star
Plaid Star

I like the Plaid star. I like the look of the piecing. I am not 100% on board with the fabrics I chose, but I don’t dislike them enough to re do the block right at this moment. Also, I chose the colors to go with the Bard of Avon block. I didn’t want the Bard of Avon to be sitting out there with these fabrics alone.

I do love that turquoise I used for the arms, though. It is hand-dyed or some kind of special surface design by Stitch ‘n Dye fabrics. It is a very special fabric, but I thought I might as well use it. I am pleased with how it looks with the other fabrics.

Austin Star
Austin Star

Someone pointed out on Twitter that the Austin Star block looks really different from the others. The squares in the corner are quite prominent. They enhance the X effect of the block. I haven’t decided if this rendition of this block will make the cut for the final quilt. It is a little on the dark side. I know there is another block similar in layout that might make this work.

Basic Star
Basic Star

I am playing with lavender/purples since I ran out of that perfect lavender with white dots by Lakehouse. This one is pretty good since there are a number of different dots made up of different colors.

 

I am really enjoying working on this project with someone else. Seeing the placement of fabric and fabric choices some one else makes is so interesting. It also inspires me to think a little differently.

 

Sampler Class: Foundation Piecing Part 2

New York Compass
New York Compass

We are working on learning foundation piecing (also called paper piecing) using a pattern called New York Compass. If you are just finding this tutorial, go to part 1 to see the supply list and learn how to prepare your pieces.

I am using an aqua with white dots for my background and a red with white  dots for my foreground. You should have already cut your rectangles for both foreground and background at 2.5″x6″. If not, do it now, as you will need them almost immediately.

The sections of Section C are marked in the order in which you should piece them. Start with C1. Odd numbers are the background and even numbers indicate you should use the foreground fabric.

You will be piecing from one side (C1) towards the middle to the other side (C17).

  1. Set up your sewing machine with an applique’ foot or similar. You will not need your quarter inch foot for the foundation piecing part of the process.
  2. Shorten the stitch length. If you can’t shorten the stitch length, remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching.
  3. If you are a speed demon, and the option is available on your machine, slow down your machine a little bit. You will need to control the speed at the beginning and the end of the stitching lines.
  4. Place your Section C pattern face down on a flat surface.
  5. Lay Section C Face Down
    Lay Section C Face Down

    Cover piece C1 with one of the background rectangles you cut in Part 1. Place the fabric so there is at least 1/4″ of fabric around each piece. You get extra bonus points if you line one long straight edge with the straight line at the end of the pattern.

  6. Now, hold these two pieces in one hand (optionally you can clip them together with a WonderClip) and hold the whole piece up to the light (facing a window or a lamp or on a light box). Take note of where the line is between C1 and C2.
  7. Add second fabric
    Add second fabric

    Still holding your pieces up to the light, take one of your foreground rectangles and place one of its edges 1/4″ from the line between C1 and C2. This will be the seam allowance and that quarter inch should hang over the line into C2.

  8. Put all the pieces carefully back down on your table.
  9. Pin the two fabrics to the paper, keeping the pin away from the line between C1 and C2. You want enough space so the pin doesn’t interfere with the foot on your sewing machine. I like to pin on my cutting mat so I don’t damage the furniture.
  10. Fold the foreground piece back to make sure that it covers C2. You will fold it on the line between C1 and C2. That will be your sewing line. You can move the pins to the front if you want to make for easier sewing.
  11. Flip the whole thing over
    Flip the whole thing over

    Flip the whole thing over and take a look.

  12. Once pinned, check again to make sure that you have at least 1/4″ all around C1 (background) and C2 (foreground).
  13. Take your piece to the sewing machine and sew on the line between C1 and C2. Do not go over. Only sew on that line.
  14. Stitched on line
    Stitched on line

    Back stitch at the beginning and the end. One backstitch is fine.

  15. Fold over to check coverage
    Fold over to check coverage

    Remove the piece from under the presser foot and fold your foreground over to check and make sure it covered C2.

    Why you need to trim
    Why you need to trim

    You can see the foreground fabric through the background, which is why you need to trim. Depending on the colors you use, this may not be the case, but you don’t want to build up so many layers that you cannot quilt through the piece.

  16. Take Section C back to your cutting mat and place it so the paper part of the pattern is on top.
  17. Fold the paper back
    Fold the paper back

    Fold the paper back on the seam line so the excess seam allowance is exposed. You are going to cut this off, so it is worthwhile to take a minute and make sure you are not cutting off the wrong part (the part you need to cover your background and spikes).

  18. Trim Excess Seam Allowance
    Trim Excess Seam Allowance

    Line up your ruler with the 1/4″ line on the seam line and trim the excess seam allowance.

  19. Press
    Press

    Take your piece to your ironing surface and place it with the paper down. Press towards the foreground, so you get rid of as much of the “bump'” from the seam as you can. Press towards the middle of your pattern. You want the foreground fabric to be as flat as you can get it. Pressing is very important. It is possible that there will be a bump when you put the next piece over the previous one, if you don’t press well.

  20. Your foreground piece should cover the line between C2 and C3 and give you a 1/4″ seam allowance.
  21. Once you have pressed the foreground flat, you are ready to put on the next background piece.
  22. Take one of your background rectangles and place one of its edges 1/4″ from the line between C2 and C3, smoothing (without stretching) the foreground piece you sewed, so it is as flat as possible. Again, this will be the seam allowance and that quarter inch should hang over the line into section C3. You may need to hold it up to the light again to position the piece correctly.
  23. Once you have the correct placement, pin in place.
  24. Once pinned, check again to make sure that you have at least 1/4″ all around C2 (background) .
  25. Sew on black line
    Sew on black line

    Take your piece to the sewing machine and sew on the line between C2 and C3. Do not sew beyond the end of that line. Only sew on that line.

  26. Repeat
    Repeat

    Repeat this process, alternating between foreground and background until you reach the other end of Section C. As you move down the pattern, your Section C will start to look like something you could put into a block.

  27. Trim Straight Edges
    Trim Straight Edges

    Use your rotary cutting kit to trim the straight edges of Section C.

  28. Trim with Sharp Scissors
    Trim with Sharp Scissors

    From the paper pattern side of Section C, I eyeball a 1/4″ and trim the curves with very sharp scissors. There are some serious layers here, so I am not fooling when I say sharp.

Finished Section C
Finished Section C

The finished Section C is a sight to behold. Even after making several of these sections, I amazed each time it comes out relatively normal.

Tips:

  • If you have to rip out stitches, rip them out from the fabric side, not the paper side.
  • Pay attention to putting the next piece on the foundation.

Resources:

Part 3 is next.

Sampler Class: Foundation Piecing Part 1

Frances talked about foundation piecing in one of her recent podcasts. I am nothing if not an accommodating 😉 teacher, so I thought we would tackle a foundation piecing pattern next. This is called New York Compass, a variation of the New York Beauty pattern. It is a little more complex than the patterns we have been working on, but I decided to throw caution to the wind and nudge Frances to step up. She has done curves, so I am confident she can do this one.

New York Compass
New York Compass

In part 1, we will prep everything.

Supplies:

  • Notebook for notes
  • Pen to take notes 😉
  • Sewing Machine
  • applique’ foot (preferably one with a mark showing where the needle will stitch)
  • 1/4″ foot
  • thread
  • fabric
  • fabric scissors
  • paper scissors
  • foundation piecing paper like Toni’s Disappearing Paper or Carol Doak’s Foundation Paper
  • pins
  • Rotary cutter
  • rulers
  • template plastic
  • template plastic friendly pen (Bic works)
  • glue stick
  • iron and ironing surface
  • thin pressing cloth
  • New York Compass pattern
  • Optional: Wonderclips
  • Optional: Lightbox
  1. Pattern in 4 Pieces
    Pattern in 4 Pieces

    Print the pattern sheets (all 4). I only have 8.5″x11″ paper so the pattern comes out on 4 sheets. Use some kind of foundation piecing paper to print the pattern. Nota Bene: I keep a folder for all of my projects, so I like to print at least 2, if not 3 copies of the pattern. One I use to make the templates, one I will tape together and keep whole (you can use regular copy paper for this one) and one I will use for the foundations.

  2. Tape pattern together
    Tape pattern together

    Trim off the margins and tape the parts together. Note, the tape will not play nicely with your iron when you press the foundation pieced parts so USE A PRESSING CLOTH. A scrap of fabric or ugly fabric work great. Guess how I found out?

  3. NY Compass Templates
    NY Compass Templates

    Above is how the templates shake out: 3 regular plastic backed templates and two foundation templates.

  4. Cut Paper Pattern Apart
    Cut Paper Pattern Apart

    Rough cut the parts of the pattern apart. You will have 5 parts. Two of them will be foundation piecing patterns and 3 of will need to be made into regular templates with template plastic.

  5. NY Compass Sections
    NY Compass Sections
    NY Compass Outline
    NY Compass Outline

    I am going to refer to the skinny spikes piece as Section C. Section C is in the middle.

  6. Make your templates. You must add a quarter of inch to your paper templates (not the ones that will be foundation pieced. If you don’t know how to make templates with template plastic, refer to my tutorial on Machine Applique’ Part 1. Make sure you put the plastic on the correct side (wrong side of fabric).
  7. Cut rectangles for foundation piecing 2.5"
    Cut rectangles for foundation piecing 2.5″

    Cut rectangles for foundation piecing 2.5″x 6.5″. This is a generous rectangle. You aren’t going to save any fabric with this technique and you should worry more about coming up short, because ripping out stitches is a real pain.

  8. There is one tricky part about these templates. You will need to add a 1/4″ to the curve. The way you do that is to: A) glue the paper template to the largest piece of template plastic you have (you may have to piece the template plastic). B) Take your ruler and start at the left end of the paper template. Line the ruler’s 1/4″ mark up with the dark outline on the paper template (you should still have a rough cut paper template before you glue the paper to template plastic). C) Make a mark with a template plastic friendly pen at the 1/4″. D) Move your ruler slightly to the right and make another mark at the 1/4″ point. E) Follow the curved line of the paper part of the template with your ruler until you reach the far right side of the ruler. F) Cut along the dots you have made in as smooth a motion as you can using your paper scissors. You should now have a quarter inch seam allowance along your template. Repeat for all curved templates.
  9. Cut your fabrics. Nota Bene: When you cut the fabrics for Section C, cut rectangles for these spikes at 2.5″.

  10. Check fabric strips
    Check fabric strips

    Check to make sure you have cut your rectangles large enough. Take your Section C and lay it face up. Cover the first section (labeled C1 on my pattern) to make sure your rectangle covers the entire section C1 plus 1/4″ seam allowance around all sides.

Now go to Part 2 to learn the actual foundation piecing.

Tips:

  • If you have to rip out stitches, rip them out from the fabric side, not the paper side.

Resources:

Star Sampler: 8″ Blocks

Green Basic Star
Green Basic Star

We have started the 8″ blocks this week. We are doing 4 each week and one of them will be a Basic Star. Being honest, I did the green one as a test when we started talking about the project.

Four 8" Blocks
Four 8″ Blocks

I was able to finish the other three blocks this weekend. I am pleased with them. I have added a couple more lavenders. I am not sure about them, but I will use at least a few more pieces so they don’t look odd.

I chose the blocks this week and they are Basic Star (top, left), Hourglass Star (top, right), Four Patch Star (bottom, right), Four Patch Variation (bottom, right).

We have 40 total of these blocks to make and I might make some of the Basic Stars in advance.

I have been doing some prep of the 4″ blocks, cutting the backgrounds and the corners in readiness for when I need some leaders and enders.

Ribbon Star

Ribbon Star Parts
Ribbon Star Parts

I finally got this block together. I made it differently this time; I used half square triangles instead of rectangles and squares. I don’t like the look of so many seams, but I couldn’t get the piece together in the correct size doing it any other way.

I am not giving you the pattern this time, because even in EQ, it wouldn’t come out right. I don’t want you to be frustrated either.

The other thing is that TFQ and I had a disagreement about the grid of this block. I drew it on the same grid as the other Sawtooth Stars. I found, though, that she was right once I started to make it. It is really a 9 patch. I shouldn’t have disagreed. She is usually correct about such things.

Ribbon Star Finished
Ribbon Star Finished

Finally, this is the last 12″ block.

This is the last 12″ block.

Star Sampler: Basic Star

Star Sampler: Basic Star
Star Sampler: Basic Star

This block might be a little bit disappointing for you after the wonders of all the other complex blocks. I am posting it rather than just quietly putting it in the quilt, because I think it is a good example of how to use special fabric effectively.

Yes, I have used the Martha Negley fabric in small doses in other blocks, but I really wanted to show off as much of blooms as I could. Perhaps I could have fussy cut a little better, but I wanted to use the fabric in a reasonable way and I liked the off center nature of the fabric in the large square.

I can always make others in the 8″ size, if I want to use more of different sections of the fabric. Here’s the Basic Star pattern.

Also, take a look at the original Quilt-a-long instructions. You can see all the posts on this topic by searching the tag “Star Sampler.”

Star Sampler: Shelburne Star

Star Sampler: Shelburne Star
Star Sampler: Shelburne Star

This block was kind of a pain to make, but the effect is really good. I am glad it came out well in terms of contrast, because if it had been a pain and looked bad, I would have been really disappointed.

I think it was a good choice to use the background fabric in the center of the larger star around the smaller star as it sets off the smaller star.

If you’d like to make one of these, here is the Star Sampler: Shelburne Star pattern. You can also find it in EQ7. Check out the Oh My Stars! Flickr Group to see all the other renditions of the final project. You can see all the posts on this topic by searching the tag “Star Sampler.”

Star Sampler: Wheel of Time

Star Sampler: Wheel of Time
Star Sampler: Wheel of Time

Don’t you like the name of this block? I think it provides ‘scope for imagination’ and evokes mystery. That is one of the things I like about vintage blocks. They, often, have great names.

I thought that background fabric in the middle might look like the viewer was looking through the block to the background, but I don’t think I achieved that semi-goal.

If you want to make a block like this, review the Star Sampler: Wheel of Time pattern, which can also be found in EQ. Also, take a look at the original Quilt-a-long instructions. You can see all the posts on this topic by searching the tag “Star Sampler.”

Star Sampler: Gypsy Dancer

Star Sampler: Gypsy Dancer
Star Sampler: Gypsy Dancer

I feel like this block came out really well. It is pretty, but has a delicate feel, too. The purple is from an ombre print, so I don’t have much of it left. I’ll have to use it judiciously.

If you’d like to make this block, I am posting the Star Sampler: Gypsy Dancer pattern. This project is from the Oh My Stars Quilt-a-long from the Thought and Found blog. Join in the fun and make some blocks.

Star Sampler: Chevron Star

Star Sampler: Chevron Star
Star Sampler: Chevron Star

One of the things I like about this block is that there are two sets of Flying Geese units in it and because of the way they are colored, they look really different and do something really different to the look of the overall block.

I realized around the time I made this block that I am going to the same fabrics over and over. I need to broaden my palette. It isn’t easy, but I have to try.

If you would like to make one of these blocks, I am posting the Star Sampler: Chevron Star Pattern. This whole project is based on the Oh My Stars Quilt-a-long from last year.

Star Sampler: First 12

Star Sampler: First 12
Star Sampler: First 12

I know there are a lot of posts about this project, but we are working on it fast and furiously. This post is a milestone, I think, because I have 12 blocks made and you can see them all together.

One of the things I like about seeing them all together is I can see what fabrics I need to repeat.

I also like seeing them because it makes me feel like I have been making some progress. I *know* I am making progress, but it is great to see the progress.

I actually have an additional 4 blocks made, as of this writing, but I am experiencing a shortage of design wall space right at the moment so you will have to wait until that clears up to see them all.

I have to say that I am tempted to start sewing all the different blocks into chunks just to get them in some kind of order. The layout is pretty clear; it would just be a matter of deciding what goes where. I’ll need a lot more 8″ squares before I can make any real progress in the layout, though.