I have said before that adding zipper heads to zipper tape is pretty easy. I don’t do it that often, so I always have to look it up. The main tutorial I use is Sara Lawson’s tutorial. Sara provides a ton of detail and I would advise watching it at least once. I am writing a quick tutorial so you can see another version.
1. Place your zipper head face down in your towel holder
2. Flip your zipper tape wrong side up. N. B. This means that both zipper tape and zipper head are facing in the same direction, wrong side up
3. Pull your zipper tape apart 3-4 inches and configure in a V formation
Make a V with the zipper tape
4. Carefully place each end of the zipper tape into each side of the zipper head
5. Push the tape in evenly until you can pull from the bottom
Completed zipper head installation
Voila! You did it!
In the future you can find this tutorial on the tutorials page.
Resources:
Natalie from Sew Hungry Hippie has a video tutorial using a jig she sells
*N.B. : If you use a fork, you might want to get one at a thrift store and just use it for zippers rather than using one you eat with.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
Once again, I am posting a gift bag tutorial to encourage you to forego paper wrapping and wrap your gifts in reusable gift bags. As a reminder, if you do not celebrate Christmas or another gift giving winter holiday, you can still make gift bags for birthdays, graduations, weddings and for giving quilts to people. You can make them using the tutorial below. You can make them using your own tutorial. You can use the In Color Order drawstring bag pattern or you can buy reusable fabric gift bags.
Supplies:
Fabric – I use either a half yard, a yard or a fat quarter. If you use a yard you can make 4 smallish bags, two medium bags or one large bag. You can make bags with any size piece of fabric and you can use the directions to make a specially sized bag for a special gift. Also, check out FabMo, if you are local, and get some super special fabric that makes up gorgeous gift bags.
thread
ribbon or cord or use your imagination (braided yarn?)
Sewing machine
basic sewing kit
For this tutorial, we will use a fat quarter of fabric
1. If your fat quarter does not have a selvedge, create a hem using two folds so there are no raw edges. If your fat quarter has a selvedge, use the selvedge for the top. It won’t unravel. If you are using the selvedge and not making a hem, skip to step 4.
2. (If you need a hem) Press hem in place.
3. Sew hem with a decorative stitch, if you have it, a zigzag or straight stitch work fine as well.
Optional: If you have stitch letters on your sewing machine, stitch your name and the year so you know when you made the bag.
4. Fold hemmed bag in half WRONG SIDES TOGETHER so that half of the hem is underneath itself towards the top and the fold is on the left. You will be making a French seam.
Sew first seam on gift bag
5. Fold a piece of ribbon about 1.5 feet long in half. You can adjust the size of ribbon you use depending on how much ribbon you need to tie.
6. Place the folded ribbon in the open side of the bag about 4 inches from the top edge/hem.
7. Pin ribbon in place.
8. Pin rest of the right side and bottom closed. NOTE: If you are folding your fabric in half, you will be sewing two sides rather than the side and bottom. Basically, sew the sides or bottom closed depending on where your open edges are.
Use an 1/8 inch seam allowance or as small as you can.
9. Starting from the top, sew down the right side, backstitching at the beginning and over the ribbon 2-3 times. Backstitch at all stress points to keep the bag from ripping apart.
10. Turn at the corner and continue across the bottom, backstitching at the end.
11. Turn the bag inside out, so the right sides are together and the ribbon is out of the way of the seam (It will be inside the bag, but I put mine as straight as possible towards the opposite side of the bag).
12. Press seams, taking care to push them as far out as possible so there is no extra fabric near the seams.
NOTE: If you ribbon is synthetic or delicate, keep it out of the way of the iron.
Use a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch seam allowance.
Finish French Seam
13. You are now sewing on the wrong side. Starting at the top, sew down the side and across the bottom again to finish the seam.
The raw edges will now be hidden inside the seams.
14. Open bag to make sure the raw edge is hidden inside the seam.
15. Turn bag inside out and press.
Candy cane heart gift bag
Voila! Your bag is really to use!
Pink Flower gift bag
Benefits:
reusable
good way to use fabric you might not use for quilts
Novelty fabrics
fabric you don’t love anymore
Use fabric you already own
orphan blocks
vintage sheets
opportunity to buy holiday fabric without committing to making a holiday (or birthday) quilt
quick way to wrap
no need to rush out to buy gift wrap
no tape or scissors needed
small children can help wrap, or wrap their own gifts
Fabric costs can be amortized over the years of the gift bag use
bags are made quickly
good opportunity to try out decorative stitches
Can quickly make a gift bag for an oddly shaped gift. I once wrapped a weed whacker in a gift bag!
Odd sized bags can be cut up later and used for different sized gifts
I reuse ribbon I get from other places for the ties
Easy to open and close the gift bag up again if the gift tag falls off
Embellishment possibilities are endless, if you want to take the time. Gift bags are a great way to try out different techniques, stitches, embroidery and embellishments
Blue Flower gift bag
Drawbacks:
takes time to develop a stockpile
reusable gift bags have to be stored
fabric costs are not insignificant
You don’t get beautiful mounds of boxed gifts under your tree
Any gift bags you make will add to your stockpile. You can use leaders and enders to make them, which means that your regular sewing isn’t interrupted much .
You can sew 2 or more borders together first then put them on your quilt top and miter them
Blends prints well
Lines up linear designs such as stripes
Add some pizzazz to a block that needs something extra, especially if you have to add coping strips
How to Miter:
Cut borders
Cut top and bottom border strips to the quilt top side lengths, plus an additional 2x the border width plus 1″. The 2x the border width gives you enough space to make the 45 degree angle. The extra 1″ is added for insurance. You can always add more “insurance”.
Formula: quilt top side lengths plus (2x the border width) plus 1“
Example: When the top of the quilt is 45”l and you want the side borders to be 5”w: 45 + (2×5”=10)=55”+ 1” =56
Sew the top border to the quilt top, starting and stopping ¼” away from the ends of the quilt, backstitching at each end.
Repeat for the other 3 borders. The corners will be flapping around.
Fold the quilt top in half diagonally, right sides together, creating a triangle.
Line up two adjacent borders; for example, the top border and the right-side border.
Fold quilt in half diagonally
Place the ruler along the 45-degree line.
Draw a line
When lined up, draw a line using a pencil and a ruler along that 45 degree angle and extend it over the borders.
Pin firmly in place.
Locate the stitch line you made when you sewed the border to the quilt top and begin sewing there.
Sew from the stitch line out toward the end of the border, directly on the pencil line.
Backstitch at the beginning and end
Sew and open to reduce bulk
Open up the quilt top to check the miter. The corner where the three seams meet should lie flat when viewed from the front. There should be no tucks or gaps. The borders should also be square.
When the corner is perfect (or at a point that you’re happy with it!), refold the top to reveal that 45 degree stitching
Trim the seam (the extra border length) to 1/4″.
Press open to decrease the bulk of fabric at the seam corner.
I know these tutorials are taking forever, but they also take a long time to write. Doing them in smaller chunks fits my schedule better. Hopefully, the smaller chunks makes the bag more doable as well.
Finished Small Interior Front Pocket
Today we are going to make the Clippy Pockets (type 1) used on the sides of the small, interior pocket instead of using the badge holders. The other day, we made the center zipper section. These Clippy Pockets will be placed on either side of the center zipper section. The pleats hold your WonderClips. The Clippy Pocket is not part of Quiltessa Natalie’s original pattern.
You can find the original pincushion instructions, from which this tutorial evolved, in Love of Patchwork & Quilting, issue 39. It is available digitally in the Apple and Google Play stores. The same pincushion pattern is available in the book 50 Little Gifts** from Lucky Spool.
SF101 – add this to whatever section you think needs it. I added it to P4 to add some stability to the Clippy Pocket
Post-it Notes** (really, you can use any post-it notes. I just like the shape and color of these. Another good product is Semikolon’s Sticky Tab Markers in a Booklet-no affiliation)
Pay attention to the flaps and pin them back if necessary so you don’t sew them down
Tutorial:
Side front interior pocket with clip holder
The front pockets needs two of these side pockets. They will go on each side of the center zipper/mesh pocket.
You can make four and put more Clippy Pockets on the back, if you want. We won’t do this in this tutorial, but it is an option.
You will need P4 and all the pieces for the Clippy Pocket, v.2.
The Clippy Pocket section is inserted on the bottom of pattern pg.13. I made the Clippy Pocket instead of vinyl badge holders.
UCAB: Pieces You need
Yes, I am using different fabrics. I am sure you can manage.
Directions:
1. Cut the following:
A – cut 1 -1 1/4”x5” for edge
B- cut 5 – 2”x4” for Clippy tabs/flaps
C – cut 5 – 1”x5” for between the flaps
D – cut 1 – 3 ¾”x5 for back
Shapeflex – cut 1 piece 19 ¾” x 3 ½”
Sew flaps: fold B pieces RST and sew short sides. One long side will remain open
Turn sewn B pieces right sides out
Press B pieces. Fold will have a crisp seam. B pieces are now flaps
Lay A piece right side up
Layer and center a sewn B piece (flap) on top of the A piece
Layer and center a sewn B piece (flap) on top of the A piece
Layer and center a sewn B piece (flap) on top of the A piece
Layer a C piece on top of the A and B pieces WS up
Sew 3 pieces together along the long side where the raw edge of the flap will be sewn shut
Press Piece
Press C piece away from the other two pieces
Layer another flap (B piece) on top of your sewn pieces
Layer another flap (B piece) on top of your sewn pieces
Follow steps until you are out of flaps (B pieces) and C pieces
20200113_162045-sm
You will end up with a piece comprised of strips and flaps that is approximately 3 ¾” x 5”. This piece looks like a ‘flap ladder’. The sides of this ‘flap ladder’ should reach the sides of your P4 strip
Press ShapeFlex to P4
Press Shapflex on to your P4 piece
Layer your ‘flap ladder’ RST with piece D and sew along the short sides
Pin
Sew the Short Sides
Layer your ‘flap ladder’ RST with piece D and sew along the short sides
Carefully press seams open without creasing piece D or the ‘Flap ladder’
Now you have a loop
Now you have a loop.
Turn your loop right sides out
Press flat
Place 2″ from the bottom of P4
Place your sewn piece 2” from the bottom of your P4 strip.
Pin in place with the raw edges at the side
Fit your machine with your matching or top stitching thread
Pin and sew across the bottom using matching or top stitching thread
Sew
Sew
Sew across the bottom. N.B. : I used a contrasting thread so you could see it. For my final bag, I will use a matching thread.
Finished Clippy Pocket ready to add to small front pocket
Continue with the directions on the Ultimate Carry All Bag pattern, pg.14, starting with “then fold the pocket fabric in half…”
Next time we will work on the Exterior front pocket
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
The Sew Together Bag pattern tells you to put the binding on the bag, then sew the zipper tabs over it. With a little effort, you can hide the ends of the zipper tabs under the binding, which is what I did with my recent Sew Together Bags. My hack takes place after you sew the binding on to the sides.
First, I sew the side bindings on to the exterior. The pattern says to sew it to the interior, but trust me. This will work.
Mark where to stop sewing
Second, I mark where to stop sewing. The goal is to leave that section of the binding under the middle fold open so I can insert the zipper tab. My regular practice is to use 2 pins. That is a sign to me that I need to stop sewing. use whatever method works for you. A Chakoner** or a Sewline Air Erase** pen can also work.
Wrap biding around
Next, I wrap the binding around to the top. In this case, I have to switch to WonderClips to mark where to stop sewing. because that whole area is WAY TOO thick. Ask me how I know. Note: my clips are in the same place as the two pins and I deliberately used pink only to mark the stopping point. The clips on the rest of that edge were different colors. Do whatever you need to do to mark your stopping point.
Sew, leaving a space open
Finally, I sew. I stop halfway between the folds of the bag’s side on each side of the center fold.
After following the directions in the pattern to sew the binding to the long, top zipper, I sew the zipper tabs to the ends of the zipper.
It occurred to me while I was doing this that next time I would cut the zipper tabs the same size as the binding. It would make wrapping the zipper tabs around the zipper ends a little easier.
Sew in Zipper Tab
Once the zipper tabs are sewn to the end of the zipper, I insert the end of the zipper tab into the space in the binding. Then I connect the stitching lines from where I stopped sewing to where I started sewing.
Zipper tabs sewn under binding
After that I sink the threads and the side bindings are done. I suppose you can backstitch, but I don’t like the look. It takes more time to tie knots, but I think it looks more finished.
Grey zipper tab ends
Zipper tabs sewn into binding – finished
Here is the first Sew Together Bag I made according to the directions (left). See how the zipper tab is just sewn to the top of the binding after the fact? One from the most recent batch is on the right. See how much better the end of the zipper looks tucked in? Is it a pain to sew it this way? Yes, it is an extra step, but it looks so much better.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
Recently, I posted the tutorial for the second Large Pocket. That is one of the pockets needed to complete the Ultimate Carry All Bag by Natalie Patton. Next we are going to work on the first part of the small, interior front pocket
SF101 – add this to whatever section you think needs it. I added it to P4 to add some stability to the Clippy Pocket
Post-it Notes** (really, you can use any post-it notes. I just like the shape and color of these. Another good product is Semikolon’s Sticky Tab Markers in a Booklet-no affiliation)
The directions for the small interior, front pocket start the bottom of pg. 12 in the pattern.
N. B.: My version of this Small Front Pocket eliminates the vinyl/badge holder pockets and includes a second type of Clippy pocket that I developed from a pincushion pattern.
N.B.2: put a Post-it note on pg.9 to remind you where her zipper instructions can be found. She refers back to them in a non-specific way and marking them is helpful for quick access.
N.B.3: I am using a couple of different versions of the front pocket for this tutorial. Ignore the differences in fabric and pay attention to the location of the parts as well as the piece numbers.
Tutorial:
UCAB – Front, small pocket
This pocket is made in 3 parts.
Center Zipper Pocket
UCAB -layer fabrics to insert zipper
First, we will make the center zipper pocket. If you haven’t already done so, fuse SF101 (or similar) to the pieces that make up the zipper pocket.
We need to add a zipper to the center part of the pocket. Full directions for adding a zipper start on pg.9. We also talked about this in the Large Pocket Tutorial.
First, lay L5 down face up/right side up.
Lay zipper on top of L5 with zipper pull facing up.
On top of L5 and the zipper, lay P5 on top of zipper face down/right side down. The layers should be L5 and P3 RST with the zipper in between.
Pinning Zipper ends
As I said before, Natalie Patton does something really clever with her zipper. She folds the zipper tape at a 45 degree angle and pins it. This makes it look really neat and tidy. Do this, as shown in detail in the Large Pocket Tutorial. Sew the layers including the zipper, being careful to move the zipper pull out of the way as needed. The last photo above shows how to sew (green line) and reminder to stop half way (red line) in order to readjust the zipper pull.
Turn over and press. Top stitch next to the zipper.
Wait to sew second side of zipper until later.
Cover mesh edges with double-fold elastic
Completed mesh prep
The center pocket has mesh, so cut the mesh and the double-fold elastic. The pattern doesn’t say, but you need to cover both long edges of the mesh with double-fold elastic or twill tape. I prefer the double-fold elastic.
Add mesh pocket to center zip pocket
In order to attach the mesh pocket to the center zipper pocket, first mesh 2″ down from the zipper.
Move L5 out of the way (right photo above).
Clip the mesh pocket to P3/partly sewn zipper section.
Sew around the mesh pocket
Leaving the top open (opening/top is closest to the zipper), sew around 3 sides of the mesh pocket. If you want to divide the pocket, mark as many divisions as you want with painter’s tape and sew very close to the painter’s tape without sewing through it.
After you finish sewing the mesh pocket, finish the center section by layering the other sides of P3 and L5 with the zipper the way you did before and sew. You will be sewing more of a roll this time.
Almost finished center zipper pocket
Your finished center pocket will look like the above photo. You still need to make the pleat so you can add 3D items to the pocket.
use ruler to measure for pleat
Stick your ruler 1/2in into the bottom of the mesh/zipper pocket to create the right sized pleat.
Clip and sew
Use Wonder Clips on the sides and the bottom to keep everything in place, especially on the top double-fold elastic. I didn’t take a photo, but you do want to put clips on the top double-fold elastic, because it tends to curl in from the mesh pocket wanting to curl.
Sew up the sides. These seams will be sewn again later, so you just need to sew enough to hold them in place until final assembly.
Finished interior center zipper pocket
Your center section is finished.
Next time we will work on the side Clippy pockets.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
Recently, I posted the first part of the tutorial for the Large Pocket #2. That tutorial included a pocket that would help you organize your WonderClips.
Today we will finish putting together the second large pocket. As I said in the previous tutorial, the Clippy pocket is not part of the original pattern, but using that tutorial, you can easily add it to P1 and still have enough space for other tools.
Seal the edges of the mesh with doublefold elastic like you did on Large Pocket #1.
UCAB Bind Mesh Pocket
The first step is to bind the top of the mesh pocket. Take the fold over elastic and fold it in half. Use WonderClips to hold the elastic in place.
Using matching thread, sew along the edge of the binding closest to the mesh. I used a straight stitch.
Add Mesh pocket
Mark 3” down from the other side of the right side of P1.
Tip: Make sure, before sewing that both pockets (Clippy & Mesh) have their openings in the same direction up. When the two raw edges are held WST, both pockets should have their openings up, closest to where the zipper will be sewed.
Line up top of mesh with 3” line.
Sew bottom of mesh pocket to P1.
Mark with blue tape
Mark your pocket divisions with blue tape – make however many you want. I have two, separated by one line of stitching
Lay zipper on top of L1 with zipper pull facing up.
Line up P1 with Clippy Pocket on top of zipper right side down.
Natalie Patton does something really clever with her zipper. She folds the ends of the zipper tape at a 45 degree angle and pins it. This makes it look really neat and tidy once the zipper is sewn in.
Fold zipper end
Layer fabric with zipper
Zipper’s 45 degree angle
In the pattern (pg.10), she talks a lot about pinning, horizontal pins, etc. I found it to be kind of confusing.
The photo (left) shows how I interpret her instructions. I tried it and it worked for me. Sotak Handmade has a video where she adds the zipper using a similar method.
Once you have the zipper tape folded and pinned, continuing layering the last piece of fabric on top.
Three layers waiting to sew in zipper
The edges of the folded zipper tabs stick out a little bit from the side of the piece where you will be sewing. This is ok and how it is supposed to look.
Sew along clipped edge to secure zipper. I use my quarter inch foot, but you can use your zipper foot, if it works for you. Make sure you move the zipper out of the way as you sew so it doesn’t interfere with your seam.
Zipper’s 45 degree angle
Fold zipper end
Sew along second side of zipper
Layer second side of zipper
Open up three layers.
Top stitch near zipper. Follow the same directions for the second side of the zipper.
Measure pleat on the bottom
Pleat the bottom.
I use the ½” marking on a ruler to mark the ½”. Push it into the bottom.
Clip to keep it in place and sew along the edges using the seam allowance noted in the pattern.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
A few days ago, I posted the second part of the tutorial for the first Large Pocket needed to complete the Ultimate Carry All Bag by Natalie Patton. This is the tutorial for the second Large pocket.
Today we will start the second of the large pockets. The directions for this step in the pattern start on page 8, step 2 of your pattern.
My version of this Large Pocket #2 includes a type of Clippy pocket that I added. The elastic holds your WonderClips and the pocket holds a rotary cutter.
Fabric and supplies layout
This Clippy Pocket is not part of the pattern, but I will share how to make it.
The picture shows all the pieces with which we will be working. If you want to omit my Clippy pocket, skip those parts of this tutorial. If you want to include it, make this Clippy Pocket before starting on the bulk of Large Pocket #2, but after you have cut all the pieces. Having the small bits and bobs ready makes the assembly of Large Pocket #2 easier.
Cut the pocket fabric 4.5 x 12.5”
Cut the SF101 interfacing 4×12
Apply SF101 to wrong side of fabric
Cut double fold elastic (you can also use a strip of fabric) 4.5” long. You can add two strips if you want more space for WonderClips
Clippy Pocket Fabric folded, finger pressed
Fold pocket fabric in half and finger press. You want the short edges to touch when you fold and finger press. The folded piece will be 4.5”x6.25 (approx.)
Pin RST with Elastic
Unfold and pin elastic to piece 1/3 down from the fold or 1 ¾” down from finger pressed center
Sew around edge
Sew around edge, leaving an opening the bottom to turn and avoiding the top with the fold.
Press Clippy Pocket
Press.
Clip corners Tip: try to press the opening seam allowances as straight as possible
Turn RS out
Turn RS out, push out seams, especially corners. Make sure seams are crisp, the press again.
Measure to place Clippy Pocket
Measure to place Clippy Pocket -2
Place Clippy Pocket in place on P1 by:
Measure 9” down from top
Measure ½” over
Place Clippy Pocket
Pin in place
Cut an additional piece of double fold elastic 9 1/8 – 9 ¼”
Measure down 3” from the top of P1. Place elastic in this location.
Tuck one end of the elastic under the Clippy pocket to hide the raw edge
Pin in place
Mark the elastic so that your tools will fit. At some point prior to this, I looked at all the tools I thought I would use and measured them to make sure they would fit.
Attach Clippy Pocket and divide elastic
Sew around 3 sides of the Clippy Pocket (not the top), ensuring that you catch the elastic in your seam.
Sew on your marks in the elastic
Add D-ring using a scrap of double-fold elastic or some fabric. Sew it in the seam allowance. I backstitch or go over the stitching a few times. This helps prevent the D-ring from becoming unsewn.
Leave long tails at the start and end of your seams, pull threads to the back and tie off with knots
If you are not adding the Clippy Pocket, cut your elastic 20″, mark and sew, following the directions on the pattern.
Check back in a few days for the rest of the tutorial for putting the large pocket #2 together.
Today we will finish the first of the large pockets.The directions for this step int he pattern start on page 8.
In the first part of this tutorial, we made the P2 pocket. We will continue from where we left off.
Tutorial:
Sew P2 to P1
Take your P1 fabric piece and your P2 pocket.
Lay P1 Face Up and Mark
Measure line 9” down from the top of P1.
Draw a light line with a Sewline** pencil. You can leave the ruler in place and adjust the placement of the pocket using the ruler, if you don’t want to mark your fabric.
Place P2 upside down on top P1. Line up the bottom of P2 with the 9″ line.
Pin the pocket in place.
Remove the ruler, if you haven’t already.
Sew across bottom of pocket
Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch (see red line) across the bottom of the pocket ONLY. You may want to backstitch carefully or tie knots and sink your threads to secure.
N.B. In this picture (right), the pocket is unfinished. On your pocket, you will not need or being using the small clips show on the bottom of the pocket, which is in the middle of P1 in the picture.
Sew to secure P2
Flip the pocket up so you can see the mesh pocket. Clip or pin in place.
Sew down the center of P2 (red line), going over the mesh pocket to secure everything and make the final division in the center of the mesh pocket.
Sew down the sides of the pocket (blue lines). Leave long thread tails at the beginning and end of these securing seams. Pull the threads to the back of the piece and tie the threads off with knots. You can use a backstitch, but tying off the threads will look better in your finished bag.
Add Zipper to Pocket
Layer fabric with zipper
Lay L1 down face up/right side up.
Lay zipper on top of L1 with zipper pull facing up.
Line up P1 on top of zipper face down/right side down.
Natalie Patton does something really clever with her zipper. She folds the zipper tape at a 45 degree angle and pins it. This makes it look really neat and tidy.
Zipper’s 45 degree angle
In the pattern (pg.10), she talks a lot about pinning, horizontal pins, etc. I found it to be kind of confusing.
The photo (left) shows how I interpret her instructions. I tried it and it worked for me.
Once you have the zipper tape folded and pinned, continuing layering the last piece of fabric on top.
Three layers waiting to sew in zipper
The edges of the folded zipper tabs stick out a little bit from the side of the piece where you will be sewing. This is ok and how it is supposed to look.
Sew along clipped edge to secure zipper. I use my quarter inch foot, but you can use your zipper foot, if it works for you. Make sure you move the zipper out of the way as you sew so it doesn’t interfere with your seam.
Open up three layers
Top stitch near zipper.
Episode 4 of Natalie’s video is actually pretty good. I like the way she shows installing the zipper.
“Butterfly effect”Layer second side of zipper
The confusing part is putting the pieces you have already sewn together with the other side of the zipper. The photo above shows kind of how this looks. This is the step where Natalie talks about opening up the first sewn side like a butterfly (pattern pg.10).
L1 face up/right side up.
Zipper on top of L1 face up/right side up.
P1 on top of zipper face down.
Second side of zipper ready to sew
Sew along second side of zipper
Sew along clipped edge to secure zipper. I use my quarter inch foot, but you can use your zipper foot, if it works for you. Make sure you move the zipper -See red line in the middle of the second side? – out of the way as you sew so it doesn’t interfere with your seam.
Top stitch near zipper.
Make Pleated Bottom
The pleated bottom allows you to more easily store items that are 3 dimensional
Measure pleat on the bottom
Use 1/2″ marking on my Creative Grids ruler, stick the side with 1/2″ marking into the pleat to measure it.
Clip the sides (the ruler should not interfere) to hold it in place.
Remove the ruler.
This is where I add D-rings. In this case, I used leftover bits of doublefold elastic to stand in for a loop.
Sew up the sides. Make sure to catch the loop/D-ring.
UCAB episode 7 : very brief video showing how the piece looks after installing the pockets in the side panels
UCAB episode 8 :Brief video showing the finished bag. No sewing
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
Last year at the guild Lynette and I started leading a sew-along with the Ultimate Carryall Bag pattern from Natalie Patton. The pandemic kind of blew the idea out of the water in the sense that we had thought about it. I decided that we needed to get back on track, because people had bought the pattern and cut out the pieces. On Sew Day earlier this month, I went into a Zoom breakout room and gave people a tutorial on making one of the large pockets.
Today we are starting to make one of the large pockets. We will work on the front pocket.
Tutorial:
First, mark all of your pieces using the tags that Lynette made.
Next, go through your pattern and mark all references to cut pieces with the numbers Lynette created. If you don’t do this, you will have no idea which pieces I am talking about.
N.B. I am using two different pockets, which use different fabrics, to illustrate this tutorial.
Note: I am just calling out a few supplies. You will need to check the pattern for a full list of supplies
UCAB Large Pocket 1 Outline
With everything assembled, you should be ready to sew.
N.B.: instead of twill tape, I use ByAnnie’s double fold elastic (AKA fold over elastic). I like the way it matches the mesh and I like the way it folds over exactly in half so I can machine stitch it. If you are using Twill Tape, you will have to bind the mesh in best way you know.
UCAB Bind Mesh Pocket
Mesh Pocket
The first step is to bind the top of the mesh pocket. Take the fold over elastic and fold it in half. Use WonderClips to hold the elastic in place.
Using matching thread, sew along the edge of the binding closest to the mesh. I used a straight stitch.
Mark Mesh Pocket in halves and quarters
Once that is done, mark the pocket in half and in quarters. I used pins.
N.B.: In the picture on the left, I have marked the mesh pocket in halves and quarters with pins, but I have not yet bound the mesh with the fold over elastic. Ignore the clips in this photo.
Add Mesh Pocket to P2
Clip bound mesh pocket to P2
Clip the bound mesh pocket to the bottom of P2.
You will need to ease the excess mesh fabric into pleats at the bottom of P2.
I used as many WonderClips as I needed to keep the mesh in place. It is a little bit challenging to keep in place. It isn’t exactly slippery, but it doesn’t stick to the quilting cotton like another quilting cotton would. Sew the bottom of the mesh pocket to P2, sewing the pleats you clipped in place as you remove the clips.
Mesh Pleats
After you sew the bottom of the mesh pocket to P2, you will notice that the mesh will look like the picture on the left on the bottom where you have pleated the mesh. This was a little bit of a challenging concept for me to understand. I don’t make many garments, as you know, which may be the reason. Also I had to figure out why to pleat. The pleats give the pocket dimension so you can use it for things that are not flat. You could also make this pocket with vinyl instead of mesh, if you want. I don’t really talk about that in this tutorial, but make the pocket the same width as P2 as bind it with quilting cotton rather than fold over elastic.
Fold top of P2 down RST
Fold P2 down towards the bottom RST. The top of P2 will cover the mesh pocket.
Clip or pin the sides in place to secure. Watch out for the other Wonder clips that you used for the mesh pocket. It would probably be bad if you sewed over them.
Sew Down Sides of P2
Sew down sides of P2 only. The orange lines in the image on the right indicate where to sew.
Backstitch at the top and bottom to secure.
Before turning, I pressed the seams on the sides open, being careful about the mesh. I was also careful not to press the top fold yet.
Turn P2 right sides out.
Press again, watching out for the mesh. ByAnnies mesh doesn’t seem to melt when pressed, but I was still careful.
Also, now press the top fold.
I pressed the bottom seam allowance inside the P2 pocket and sewed it closed when I sewed P2 to P1, which I will talk about in the next tutorial.
UCAB P2 pocket sewed to P1
P2 is now finished. In the photo, I have already sewn it to P1, but I will talk about that next time.
Use the seam allowance indicated in the pattern. Tip: Natalie, the designer, sometimes switches seam allowance sizes so pay attention to those directions.
I made two of the P2 pockets and put them on both sides of this large pocket, using the same directions. In the next tutorial, we will sew the P2 pocket to P1 and add the zipper.
I bought Doug Leko’s Folded Corners Ruler** awhile ago but didn’t have a reason to use it until Saturday. I started working on the X Quilt last week. I was really struggling with the way the pattern was written. After reading a Bonnie Hunter post about Valentine’s Day where she mentioned this ruler**, I dug it out. I watched a video, started using it which resulted in the X quilt process moving along. I also felt happier.
Folded corners are often referred to as “flippy corners”. This ruler makes them easy. I was amazed to find that they sew up perfectly. I watched the Fat Quarter Shop video demo to get me started.
Two squares to join
First you need the two squares indicated in your pattern. I used a 6.5 inch square and a 3.5 inch square. These sizes came straight from the pattern. These sizes were one of three pairs of sizes I needed to make the quilt. I used the same process on all the sizes and it worked perfectly regardless of size.
My smallest sizes were 3.5 inch square and 1.5 inch square (for the corner). I was concerned that the 1.5 incher would be too small, but it worked just as well as the others. N.B. I did have to make sure that the small pieces did not get caught in my machine, but it was made easier because there were no dog ears. Doug Leko does have a mini version of the ruler** I mentioned, but I don’t have it and didn’t’ investigate the differences. I also noticed that Creative Grids has a ruler that purports to do the same thing**.
Line up two squares
Make sure right sides are together. Line up your squares so the corners are straight. You do not want to see the bottom square on the top or right when the pieces are lined up.
The above step requires fairly accurate cutting. By that I mean your square should be square.
Line up ruler
Place the ruler** on the two squares. Line up the solid line on the left and the XX line on the bottom with your top square.
Lines to use
When you line up the ruler, there is a solid line on the left. It is the first solid line on the left and connects with the diagonal line. This is the line you place on the left side of the smaller square. The diagonal line should be corner to corner.
Cut on the diagonal
Cut on the diagonal. The ruler includes the diagonal seam allowance. This is a great feature of the ruler so you don’t have to guess where to sew like you do when drawing a diagonal line. Also! No drawing of diagonal lines. I have a lot of corners to add for the X quilt so this is a bonus. It saves me a little time.
Pin then sew
I like to pin, then I sewed along the diagonal.
Press.
Perfect corner!
Perfect! You might think that I picked the most perfect one, but I didn’t. First, I didn’t know what was going to happen when I started taking photos for the tutorial. With very few exceptions all the corners came out lined up perfectly. Where they didn’t (1 or 2 only), I think it was because I didn’t press the fabric properly or didn’t cut accurately.
Whole Lozenge Block
The whole block came out really well, too.
I love the idea of specialty rulers. I often buy them with hope and don’t take the time to learn to use them. Or they turn out to be not as promised- not as helpful, hard to use, etc. This ruler works really well. I am super pleased not to have to draw 2 zillion diagonal lines!
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item
when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost
to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your
clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
I am using a different quilt for this tutorial, but I have faith that that won’t make a difference to all of you intelligent readers and students who have been following along with my various sampler class tutorials.
Supply List:
blocks
fabric for sashing
fabric cornerstones (I used scraps, but my cornerstones were only 1.5 inches square)
Please note that we are only talking about sashing in this tutorial. We are not talking about borders. I will do a separate tutorial for borders in the future.
Red Strip Donation Blocks
I started out with the above group of donation blocks. I have been setting these with plain blocks of the same size. I decided that I wanted to do something different with these blocks. Sashing is the answer. Having something between these blocks prevents the seams from getting too thick and hard to sew. Also, it allows each block to shine a little bit rather than being part of a mass. Adding sashing or plain borders or nothing is a design choice. For any quilt, it is important to decide on the look and feel you want.
Even if you put the same sized plain blocks between these blocks, the method I will show you works the same way.
Blocks with Sashing & Cornerstones
The first step is to cut sashing and cornerstones. The photo above shows all the sashing and cornerstones cut and laid out on my design wall.
If you don’t want cornerstones, cut your top sashing the same size as your block + side sashing – 1/2 inch seam allowance (1/4 inch + 1/4 inch = half inch). The formula is:
Block size + vertical sashing – 1/2 inch seam allowance = finished size of top sashing without cornerstones
I can’t tell you the exact size, because I don’t have your blocks in front of me. Use a calculator. I do.
Also, notice that my top and side rows are different. I plan to put a straight strip of fabric across the top and sides as a border, which means I don’t need sashing for the top or sides.
Once you have all of your sashing and cornerstones cut, it is time to sew. I like to start in the bottom left hand corner. I start there because it is closer to my sewing machine when all the blocks are on my design wall. As I sew, the blocks shrink (because of the taken up seam allowance) and get closer to where I am sitting.
Sew vertical sashing to right side of block
First, sew one vertical sashing piece to the right side of your block.
Press to the red.
Sew top sashing to cornerstone
Next, sew one piece of the top sashing to a cornerstone. In the above photo the sashing is white and the cornerstone is a red flower fabric.
Take your new little sashing + cornerstone piece to the ironing board and press to the red.
Now, nest the seams and pin the top sashing/cornerstone piece to the block with vertical sashing.
The top sashing should be on the top of the block as it moves through the sewing machine. Sew the top sashing to the block.
Top sashing sewn to block with vertical sashing
Sew the side sashing and the top sashing/cornerstone to all the blocks as described above.
IMPORTANT: The top row, as mentioned above, in my quilt, is different, so just sew the vertical sashing to the blocks in the top row and the top sashing to the blocks on the right edge.
All of the blocks have sashing/cornerstones sewn to their correct side
Once you have sewn all the sashing on to the blocks, you will begin to sew the blocks together. This is chunking. I have talked about it before. I ‘chunk’ because 1) I don’t like sewing long rows together and 2) it keeps my piecing more precise.
Take two blocks with sashing & sew them togetherPin blocks together, matching seams and sew
First take the two blocks in the bottom left hand corner, pin them with matched points and nested seams. You will pin them together so that the top white sashing is sewn to the red cornerstone. The white vertical sashing will be sewn to the red block.
Sew them together. I pin in the seam allowance so that i have a better chance at the seams matching up. When I take the pins out as I am sewing, chances increase that the seams won’t match. In general, to increase my chances of perfectly matching seams, I try to sew towards the seam allowance, but that didn’t work on this quilt, because I pressed towards the red. Use a stiletto to keep the seams in place for as long as possible.
Two blocks with sashing sewn together
Now you have a block with sashing on two sides.
Once you have sewn all of the sashing and cornerstones to the blocks, you will have completed the first step in putting your quilt top together.
Sew sashing to top of blocks on the right edge only
On the right edge of the quilt, you will only sew the top sashing to the blocks. As mentioned before, there will be a border without cornerstones in my quilt, so I don’t need vertical sashing or cornerstones on the edges. If you want cornerstones in your border, follow the directions above for all blocks.
One long seam left
After you have sewn the various blocks together, you will have one long seam left.
Finished Center with sashing
Once you sew that seam, the center of your quilt top is done.
I know that the common way of sewing a quilt together is sewing it together in rows then sewing all the rows together. Using the row method is easier to explain than ‘chunking’, but, as I said above, my method is more precise.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
This is more of a guideline than a tutorial. It will teach you how to make the Spiky 16 Patch block in a general way. You will need to review the Studio180 video and know how to do basic piecing.
This block is my own design and uses Half Rectangle Triangles (HRTs) and 2.5 inch squares to make a 16 inch (finished) block. I have used these blocks to make a number of donation quilts.
Supplies:
Fabric:
16-2.5 inch squares
8 -2.5 inch squares for foreground
8-2.5 inch squares for background
5 inch strip of foreground – you’ll have to work through what width you need. I use scraps, so I don’t know the exact length
Computer or other device capable of viewing YouTube
Internet connection
Fabric Units Needed
This is a repeat of above, but with, perhaps, some additional information
8 – 2.5 inch squares (unfinished) from background fabrics
8 – 2.5 inch squares (unfinished) from foreground fabrics
8 – 2 inch x 4 inch (finished) left facing half rectangle triangles (half foreground and half background)
8 – 2 inch x 4 inch (finished) right facing half rectangle triangles (half foreground and half background)
4 – 4.5 inch (unfinished) squares from background fabrics
Center of block:
Take your 2.5 inch squares and sew them into 4- 4 patches
Blue Square Donation Block
Sew your 4 patches together into a 16 patch as shown above.
I start with 5″ strips for the 2 in x 4 in (finished) HRTs. Remember: I am using the Split Recs ruler and it uses that size strip for the HRTs. You can make your HRTs using whatever method is convenient. Make sure they end up 2 inch x 4 inch finished.
It is really important to take the time to look at the Studio180 Split Recs video. It will make your life a lot easier.
Cut and trim HRTs using Split Recs ruler
Following the directions in the video, cut, sew and trim your HRT pieces:
8 right facing triangles
8 left facing triangles
Spiky Star in progress
Once you have sewn and trimmed your HRTs place them with your 16 patch, like the photo above. Note: until you sew the HRTs together, the laid out block will look uneven as my example above shows. The bottom left hand HRTs are already sewn together and you can see how they fit nicely next to the squares in the 16 patch.
Spiky Star laid out
Cut 4 corner squares from background fabric 4.5 inches by 4.5 inches. Sometimes I use a variety of background fabrics when I am cutting from scraps. It adds interest to the block. Just make sure you have enough contrast.
Group of 4 HRTs
Start sewing your HRTs together into groups of 4.
Sew HRT units to center 16 Patch
Once I have the four HRT units, I sew one to each side, starting with the sides. Above shows the center block with two HRT groups of 4 sewn to the sides.
Group of 4 HRTs with background squares
Once part of the block is made, I start making the last two sections, the top and the bottom.
Take one HRT section and sew it to a 4.5 x 4.5 background square. Sew the second background square to the other side of the HRT section. Do this step again for the top.
Spiky Star – 3 sections
You will end up with 3 sections.
Complete Spiky Star block
Sew one HRT/background square section to the top and then sew the second section to the bottom of the center section. Once you have done this, press and your block is complete.
There are other ways to make the HRTs for this block. This is the method I use. Take a look at the Spiky 16 Patch blocks and quilts I have made using this technique.
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
DH, apparently, has an Altoids habit. I had no idea until he came home and started to work remotely. I asked him to save me a couple of tins and suddenly I had 8 to work with. I wanted to make small sewing kits for the guild officers. I looked for tutorials. The one I liked was DIY Felt Magnet. It turned out, however, that I mostly fumbled along on my own during Craft Nights.
One key was letting everything dry thoroughly after I glued it.
Finished Altoids Sewing Kits
Supply List:
Altoids tins – you can use different tins by adjusting the size of the various pieces.
I wanted to cover all the advertising and nutritional information with fabric. I used felt so I wouldn’t have to worry about the raw edges.
First, I made a cardboard template. To make the template, I traced around the bottom of the Altoids tin. Then I cut out the template and made sure it fit in the following places:
bottom
inside bottom
inside top
I wanted full coverage in all of those places.
Next, I cut out pieces of felt for the inside top, the inside bottom and the bottom. Set aside the pieces for the inside top and
Put down some waxed paper to protect your work surface. On the waxed paper, I glued the other two pieces to the the inside bottom and the bottom.
Set the tin aside and let the pieces dry thoroughly.
Trim
Cut a strip of fabric 1-1/2 inches wide x 12 inches long. Use your bias tape maker to make some trim. This piece does not have to be on the bias.
Set aside.
WonderClip Band and Needle Holder
Check to be sure your other pieces are glued securely to the tin and the glue is dry.
Inside of Altoids Sewing Kit
You will need the piece you cut from the template and set aside.
Third, I cut two pieces of contrasting colored felt (if you want these pieces to show). I cut a small band 3/8 inch by 2 1/4 inches (or the width of your tin) and a rectangle 2 inches x 2 inches.
Fourth, sew the band 1/2 inch up from the bottom of your set aside piece.
Fifth, center your 2×2 rectangle 3/8 inch down from the top and sew the rectangle to your set aside piece. Sew very close to the top edge of the felt rectangle. You may have to adjust it, so you don’t cover the WonderClip band.
Next, put down some waxed paper to protect your work surface. Glue your section with the WonderClip band and needle holder to the inside top of your tin.
Set the tin aside and let it dry thoroughly.
Pincushion
Seventh, take your 5.5″ x 8″ fabric rectangle and baste by hand with large stitches a shape that approximates the shape of the Altoids tin top (rectangle with round corners).
Next, tighten the basting to the approximate shape of the top of the tin.
Side view of Altoids tin Sewing Kit
Ninth, stuff the fabric with wool roving or Fiber Fill, keeping it in the shape of the top of the tin, but puffy.
Tenth, fold the excess fabric on the bottom so the wool roving stays inside. You may need to trim the fabric if it overlaps too much. Make sure the shape fits the top of the Altoids tin.
Next, put down some waxed paper to protect your work surface. Apply glue to the top of the tin and apply the pincushion. Adjust the shape to fit as needed. Press and hold for a few moments so it stays in place.
Set the tin aside and let it dry thoroughly.
Applying Trim
Check to be sure your pincushion is glued securely to the top of the tin and the glue is dry.
Put down some waxed paper to protect your work surface.
Dot glue on one short end of the tin along the bottom of the lid only. Press the bottom of the trim piece on the glue. Secure to the pincushion with a pin.
Set the tin aside and let it dry thoroughly.
After the end is dry, dot glue around the rest of the bottom of the tin and press the trim to the glue. Pull tight as you press.
End of Altoids tin
Overlap the end and cut the end of the trim strip so you have piece of the top of the trim that you can fold under to cover the raw edge of the beginning of the strip. Pin in place to allow the glue to dry.
Set the tin aside and let the glue dry thoroughly.
Finishing
Side view of Altoids tin Sewing Kit
Take your Perl Cotton and stitch along the edge of your trim. Use a basic running stitch or some kind of fancy stitch, if you want. Start away from the hem of the trim. Stitch all the way around, catching the pincushion fabric in the stitch as you sew. You may need to tuck bits of the pincushion under the trim. Finish near the hemmed section and bury the thread as you would in a quilt.
If this is a gift, put a pin and a WonderClip into the tin to show your recipient how the features work.
Enjoy!
**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
An accurate 1/4 inch seam allowance on your sewing machine (hand work is different) is imperative for most quilt projects. Still some quiltmakers struggle. Below are some tips and, even further below, are some resources.
Supplies:
sewing machine
your usual thread
Seam guide or quarter inch foot
fabric
Ruler
Optional: blue painter’s tape or masking tape
Mostly, I will provide tips and tricks. You can watch the videos below to set up and test your machine to sew an accurate quarter inch seam.
First, decide if you care. If you don’t care, move on with your life. I am not saying that flippantly. We are all busy and if sewing an accurate 1/4 inch seam allowance is something you don’t care about, then go sew something.
Second, be prepared to play around. You’ll have to do some testing. Think of it as playtime.
Janome quarter inch foot
Third, you will need some kind of seam guide. A foot included with your sewing machine (or available for purchase separately) is an option.
I use the Janome quarter inch foot and interchange the same foot with both of my machines. I have 2-3 of them, but any one of them works on both of my machines. When I had a Singer, I stacked up layers of tape to make a ‘stop’ or wall at the quarter inch mark.
Dritz has a magnetic seam guide*. I used one of these and found that, when it stayed in place, it worked.
For Juki machines, Jen Carlton Bailly recommends, a “T” gauge*. This screws into the needle plate somehow. I have seen this in use, but have not used it myself.
These are a few of the many, many products available. Check around with your friends and ask your machine dealer what they recommend.
Try different methods to see what works for you.
Using a seam guide
Tip #1: If you use a seam guide, use the seam guide
It is easy to allow your attention to wander away from what you are doing. If you are using a seam guide, keep the fabric right next to the guide.
In general improv piecing is not a problem, but if you are attempting to go through many layers AND sticking to a quarter inch seam allowance, it is difficult. I ran into this when sewing the Red Strip Donation Top #2.
You can see the seam line wanders in the photo (left). When I am sewing tiny pieces together, the layers add up. This is what happens to me using my machine when I am trying to go through too many layers. This can also happen with blocks when a lot of layers come together in the center of a block.
Tip #3: Press open to reduce bulk
I don’t believe in pressing my seams open as a general rule. However, if you have a lot of bulk that is interfering with your seam allowance, pressing open can help. Have a reason to press open separate from “that’s what modern quiltmakers do.” I also press my seams open on the backs of quilts to reduce the bulk, which is the problem with accurate seam allowance and problems with longarm quilting. If you press open, you need to backstitch every seam that will not be crossed by another. That means that every improv quilt I make gets a line of stitching around the outside of the quilt. Every quilt without a border also gets a line of stitching around the outside. If you don’t, seams can unravel. On the edges both open seams and closed seams can unravel.
Tip #4: Machine markings
The measurement markings on your needle plate can help you keep your seam allowance accurate. While not a panacea, it is another aid when you are struggling to keep your piecing straight.
Tip #5: Adjust your needle
Many machine default to a 3/8ths or 5/8ths inch seam. Even pretty basic machines allow the maker to move the needle. If your machine has this feature, it is an easy way to get an accurate quarter inch seam. You just have to remember to do it when you turn on the machine!
Go through the process of testing your machine for an accurate quarter inch seam. Once you have it and have your system for sewing the accurate quarter inch seam, your patchwork will be better.
Tip #6: Use thin thread
Thread takes up space in the seam. If you are off my just a bit, then use thinner thread, like Aurifil 50 wt. Bottomline is a thin thread as well.
Resources:
All People Quilt: video on accurate quarter inch seam
*I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item you click on. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.
