New Binding Technique

I saw a different binding technique, again, on Instagram. I tried it on a recent project and it works really well.I need to try it on a quilt or smaller project so I can get a better idea.

New binding technique - sewed
New binding technique – sewed

It is basically just matching up the edges of the binding, turning both pieces at an angle and pressing, then sewing them.

I found that I needed to have additional unsewn length in the binding for this technique. I was making a Hold Tite Folio which is already very small. I didn’t leave enough spare length as I was going to use a different joining method.  I remembered this one and changed my plan at the last minute. I think it will be easier on a quilt. 

I have to say that some of the recent binding tutorials I have seen on IG are brilliant. Mostly they have to do with joining the ends, which I have always found to be a challenge. That was not something I learned when I learned to make quilts. I don’t remember if it wasn’t taught or if I missed the class. I always teach joining in my classes.

Watch the video and let me know what you think.

Open Wide Pouch

Noodlehead Open Wide Pouch #1
Noodlehead Open Wide Pouch #1

This pouch serves several purposes. First, I have wanted to try the Noodlehead Open Wide Pouch pattern for awhile. This is a very popular and free pattern. It is nice to have a go-to, simple yet straightforward pouch pattern that I can make up quickly. I still haven’t found one, which is why this was on my list to try. The instructions are basic, but complete. I found it useful to have some experience with other pouch pattterns. Don’t you think it looks like a stingray? 

Second, I told my Mom I would make her some pouches that she could give out as thank yous. This is an easy pattern to follow and I know that I will be able to make a few of them relatively quickly. It also doesn’t require any hardware, such as a frame, which makes the pouch more cost effective.

Finally, I want to learn how to anchor the lining of bags to the exterior. Yes, Lynette showed me once and I did it on the Hildegarde Trunk after Lynette gave a mini-workshop at Bag Club. Then, I didn’t use the technique again and forgot how to do it. I think if I can cut out two or three of the Open Wide pouches and get them to the boxing corners point, I will be able to practice anchoring the lining a few times. That should get the process stuck in my head. 

Open Wide- ready to box
Open Wide- ready to box

The pouch is now at the point where I need to box the corners. I arranged with Lynette to do the boxing of the corners at Sew Day. I hope I can, again, learn to anchor the lining to the exterior.

I was surprised to find that the directions are similar (a shortened version?) of the Emmaline Retreat bag. Then I realized that both are very simple zipper pouch patterns and they are all made the same way. I referred to the Retreat Bag directions, because I wasn’t sure what to do when I was sewing around the edge of the pouch and got to the top of the zipper.

For the next pouch, I plan to use a technique from Sweet Cinnamon Roses (IG) for creating zipper tabs on the top end of the zipper. I have wanted to try it as it looks like it will reduce bulk a bit and make the corner of the zipper pouch actually close.

 

Interesting Zipper Technique

Dogwood zipper technique
Dogwood zipper technique

One thing I wanted to talk about was the zipper technique that Sara uses for the Dogwood pouches.

One caveat: I am not a zipper expert, though I have added a lot of zippers to various bags. I don’t know if this is a common technique or if Sara devised it.

The basic idea is to measure from the end of the zipper twice in equal intervals and mark the two lines. The pattern was very clear that you needed a certain sized zipper – or to trim your zipper to a certain size. Then you fold the zipper 90 degrees and sew as the photo shows. I don’t know if the interval matters and I don’t know if the size of the zipper matters. This is the first time I have seen this technique. I might ask in the Sew Sweetness group, but we’ll see.  I’d love to be able to incorporate it into other types of pouches.

Hindsight Dogwood zipper detail
Hindsight Dogwood zipper detail

The thing I like about it is that it makes for a very neat finish once the bag is done. In the photo, you can see that the end of the zipper is encased in the seam. Not only does this look good, but it reduces bulk in the seam.

Improving the Atlas Zipper

I didn’t really understand the directions for curving the zipper at the top of the Atlas Zipper Case pattern. My first one came out a little weird looking. There is a weird lump in the curve on the top. Underneath the end sticks out a little bit. None of this is fatal, but I wanted to do better on the second one.

Zipper tape at 90 degrees
Zipper tape at 90 degrees

I decided to make a triangle out of the end of the zipper. It makes a neat end with no lumps or bumps. I sewed the end down in the triangle, like in the photo (from another project). This keeps the end of the zipper in place, so I wouldn’t have to worry about it moving. As a bonus, I was able to create a nice curve as well.

Atlas zipper - better ending
Atlas zipper – better ending

The zipper on the Cal Atlas came out much better than on the Paris Atlas. There are no lumps and the curve is much flatter. In the future, I’ll do that to finish the zipper ends.

I recommend this method for crating zipper ends in the right circumstances. If you have a zipper tab, then you don’t need to do this. This is a great finish if the end of the zipper will be exposed for whatever reason.

 

LeMoyne Star Demo

As you know from the Sampler Quilt class tutorials, I am very fond of people learning all the quiltmaking techniques. It is a way to be free from the tyranny of always having to use a pattern.

NOTE: I am not against quilt patterns and I feel we should all support quilt designers.

Y Seams demo sample
Y Seams demo sample

However, at some point quiltmakers will want to make a quilt design they have thought up themselves. To do this, we need to know all the techniques. Thus, I couldn’t say no when SueS asked me to do a Y Seams demo for the guild. As usual, I had to overachieve. I posted a handout to the guild members only site*. Most of the information is in the Y Seams tutorial.

I made a whole bunch of step outs and notes to tell people. I won’t be actually sewing. That didn’t work out well when I tried to show a demo of leaders and enders, thus the step outs.

 

 

*N.B. If you are in the Bay Area and want to join, click the join button on the guild site. We also have a Zoom option, though the demos and Bag Club are not always available via Zoom.

Zipper Tab Technique

I was very pleased to learn a new zipper tab technique after working on the Stella Pouch. I actually emailed Sara Lawson from Sew Sweetness about it. She said it was new to her. I really like the technique, because it makes zipper tabs really easy and you don’t have bits sticking out as you do when you fold them.

Note this is not a tutorial. I am just showing a technique you can try. It is well explained in the Stella Pouch pattern. You can probably figure out how to sew zipper tabs using this method from the photos below.

CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 1
CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 1

First you cut two pieces of fabric and place them over the zipper. You don’t put the fabric quite to the end.

CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 2
CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 2

Next sew a big U starting away from the end of the zipper. Do not catch the zipper tape in the stitching. It is pretty easy to see the zipper tape through the fabric.

CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 3
CSQ Zipper Tab Technique step 3

After the tabs are sewn, turn the zipper tabs out to cover the raw edge of the zipper. You might want to trim the corner where the vertical stitching meets the horizontal stitching to reduce bulk.

CSQ Zipper Tab Technique - turned tab detail
CSQ Zipper Tab Technique – turned tab detail

Now you can sew your zipper into a bag or pouch.

CSQ Zipper Tab Technique - info
CSQ Zipper Tab Technique – info

However, one thing I didn’t like was that I couldn’t poke the turning point corner out to be crisp. I even tried my awesome Modern American Vintage turning tool. It was a little large for the job. I wonder if they have a smaller version? I didn’t trim around the corner, but I would try that next time (see above).

Zipper tabs sewn in
Zipper tabs sewn in

Fortunately that particular area is sewn into the seam allowance when you sew the zipper into the bag or pouch. It makes the technique really crisp and clean. Of course, if the zipper is sticking out like in the Cotton Candy pouch or the Boxy Clear pouch, then a different technique needs to be used.

 

Contemplation of Zippers

I have been thinking about zipper installation since my sewing date with Cyndi. There, I installed two zippers.

Enigma #3 inner zipper pocket top
Enigma #3 inner zipper pocket top

The first one was the small pocket zipper, which went into place with no problem. That small pocket is a great opportunity to use some smaller zippers.

The second was the zipper for the overall bag, which didn’t go together at all well. This was completely my fault, because I was being lazy. I didn’t install the zipper foot and, thus, the edge of the regular foot interfered with the smooth installation of the zipper.

Installed zipper looks beautiful
Installed zipper looks beautiful

I suffered for my laziness and hope to have learned my lesson. I unstitched the whole zipper, installed the zipper foot and re-sewed the zipper. There were no wobbles using the zipper foot. My only complaint was that I found the end of the thread to be a pain because there is no foot  under which to anchor it. I hope I will now have the habit of installing the zipper foot in the future. 

Trim away foam in zipper opening
Trim away foam in zipper opening

On another bag, I installed an internal zipper pocket. I have always found that pressing the area around the zipper opening into shape before installing the zipper to be less than satisfactory. In this latest pattern, the designer suggested trimming away the foam to make the preparation for topstitching easier. I did that and did find it a bit easier. I could have probably trimmed more, but was trying to be careful since I have never done that before. If you haven’t ever made an inside zipper pocket, take a look at this tutorial. Also, Sara from Sew Sweetness* has a video for using her acrylic template. I have one of those templates and use it every time I make one of these pockets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*no affiliation; just a happy customer

No Paper Sewing FPP

Julie told me about foundation paper piecing where you don’t sew through the paper. I meant to have her show me at the last Sew Day, but somehow we didn’t get around to it.

As my stack of postcards grew, I knew I needed to do something, so I watched a video called My FPP (Foundation Paper Piecing) No Sew Paper Method and was able to get started.

WOW!

What a game changer! I might actually start to use FPP more.

I am not doing a tutorial right now, but might in the future. It would be a good technique to teach in my Sampler class.

Fold pattern over thin ruler
Fold pattern over thin ruler

One of the keys is folding the paper back. The video I watched show using the Add-a-Quarter** ruler to fold the paper back. I have that ruler, but it didn’t work the way I expected. I have a very thin Bernina ruler I got somewhere and that worked very well for me.

I also have a thin plastic grid ruler**, which I haven’t tried that might work well also.

There are a few different videos on this technique. Julie said she uses this technique in a little different way, but that what it shows is basically the same.

One good thing about this technique is that I don’t have to print paper patterns all the time, use them once and then print another. Great reuse!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

**Obviously, you should shop at local quilt shops and small businesses. However, if you are too busy or can’t find what you need there, I use Amazon affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item’s link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.

Cutting Soft & Stable

I was a little shocked and surprised when Julie brought me the giant roll of Soft & Stable. After letting it float around the room for awhile, I finally settled it into an out of the way, basically permanent location.

Now that it is suitably housed, I have been using it. Using it was also a problem, because I don’t have a table – cutting table – large enough to hold the roll. If the roll is not supported, then it is hard to cut the foam accurately.

Cutting foam off a roll
Cutting foam off a roll

I am making some more Hackneys. One of the supplies is foam and since I am making several I decided to cut strips off the roll and then subcut them into the right sizes and shapes for various pieces.

This was a good plan, but the only way I could execute it was to put the roll on the floor. I used my long Creative Grids ruler** and a Pilot Scuf** that I like to measure the right sizes. Once the measuring was done then I used scissors to cut the strips out.

I could have used the dining room table, but that would mean hauling everything downstairs, cleaning off the dining room table, cutting and putting everything back. The only thing I would really gain was not squatting. I stayed upstairs. Also, I had to pull the roll out several times to cut more foam.

I thought cutting strips would be better, because then the edge would stay straight and be easier to use.

Subcutting foam
Subcutting foam

Subcutting was, pretty much, a breeze. I had a 60″ wide strip to deal with, but it was so much easier than the giant roll. The foam, as you know, is really lightweight, so I let it dangle over the edge of my cutting table and cut the sizes I needed. It worked great.

 

 

 

 

**Obviously, you should shop at local quilt shops and other small or indie businesses. However, if you are too busy or can’t find what you need at the smaller suppliers, I use Amazon affiliate links. I may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item’s link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases, as it helps support this blog.

Revisiting OdiCoat

Percheron Pouch: bottom has OdiCoat
Percheron Pouch: bottom has OdiCoat

A few weeks ago, I coated some fabric using OdiCoat. The OdiCoat dried pretty well in 24 hours and then again in 24 hours after the second coat. I was able to use it to put a bag together, but the bottom, where I had used the OdiCoat was still sticky. Not wet-sticky, but sticky in such a way that it would stick to the table. It felt like sewing thicker vinyl. I had a hard time sewing it and needed to use my vinyl techniques to complete assembly.

The bag sat for awhile, which was great, because the OdiCoat cured (I guess, or dried further) and is no longer sticky! Yay!

I am pleased with the protection the medium provides. This is the perfect pattern for it as it has a contained piece for the bottom. I’ll definitely try this substance again.

OdiCoat Test

I am making a Percheron Pouch and was finally organized enough to coat the bottom with OdiCoat**.

Preparing to apply Odicoat
Preparing to apply Odicoat

Using Odicoat means rough cutting a pattern piece, then applying two layers to fabric. The first layer has to dry before the second layer can be applied.

As you know, I try to avoid messy projects, but I do like protecting the bottoms of my bags if I can. The iron-on vinyl isn’t ideal. It is wearing through and pulling away from the bottom of one of the bags on which I used it.

I had time to use the OdiCoat, so I did it. I applied on the kitchen counter, using wax paper to keep the counter clean. I allowed it to dry for 24 hours, which the directions say. I found that it was mostly dry much earlier, but I could tell the difference after 24 hours.

Two layers later I found that the piece, which was rough cut, had a plastic feeling layer on top.

Now I’ll have to see how it sews!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**Obviously, you should shop at local quilt shops. However, if you are too busy or can’t find what you need at quilt shops, I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item’s link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.

La Pass Center Medallions

Kelly Pena, a quiltmaker/sewist also working on La Pass and in the private La Pass FB group, creating a basic and an easy to understand tutorial for making center medallions.  She has kindly allowed me to use her photos for this English Paper Piecing technique. This question has come up a few times in our La Pass group. I consulted with Kelly and said that I would write a blog post using her photos so there would be a permanent link to the information. I have added a little bit of additional explanation to Kelly’s already excellent tutorial.

Tula Pink's Parisville Cameo
Tula Pink’s Parisville Cameo

Our La Pass rosettes require certain sized fabric pieces that correspond to the paper we are using to create various rosettes. We fussy cut the fabrics and make cool designs. Sometimes people want to use a larger motif, such as Tula Pink’s Marie Antoinette from Parisville Deja Vu. This motif would be difficult to put together using the various shapes and pieces. Not impossible, but very difficult.

In order to use up, in this case, the entire cameo and not make ourselves completely crazy, we need more ‘paper space’.

Combine papers
Combine papers

1. Find all of the paper pieces you need (want to use) to make the center medallion. Tape the paper pieces together for the final shape. This can vary depending on the shapes making up the rosette and you can adjust the shape by adding or deleting papers until you are satisfied. You can create quite a large shape.

As far as I know, there is no size limit as the paper will be removed at some point anyway. My gut tells me that you may have some issues with the bias if the pieces are too large. As a result, and, as usual, be careful with the bias.

You can configure the papers into any shape that will work for the fabric you have. I tried this technique on one of the Month 4 rosettes and found it moderately successful. In looking at Kelly’s example above, I should have added the long, thin diamonds to my center in my attempt. I think it would have made the process easier. The concave edges around the center diamonds are difficult and the long, thin diamonds make the edge easier to deal with.

Lay combined papers on fabric
Lay combined papers on fabric

2. Lay the combined and taped papers on the fabric. Adjust the placement until you have the fabric motif you want centered on your papers.

Remember to take seam allowance into account.

You can use a light board or light box** here for more accuracy.

 
 
Cut around paper leaving seam allowance
Cut around paper leaving seam allowance

3. Cut around the template allowing for seam allowance.

N.B.: In the image (left), Kelly is cutting freehand. If you are not confident, you can also use a small rotary cutting ruler**. If you use a ruler, you will need to keep moving it around the piece. In this case, a rotating cutting mat** might be helpful.

Cameo/Center Medallion basted
Cameo/Center Medallion basted

4. Baste as usual. Kelly and I are both using glue for La Pass. I am using thread basting for my Half Hexie Star project. Either method will work with this center medallion technique.

You may find it helpful for circular shapes to cut notches into the seam allowance when basting.

5. Stitch up your new larger piece. The paper shapes used will allow you to sew as if you were stitching all the shapes separately.
 
Thanks, again, to Kelly for allowing me to use her words and photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**Obviously, you should shop at local quilt shops, knitting shops or art stores. However, I use Amazon affiliate links. I may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on that item’s link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I only link to items I like. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support the costs related to maintaining this blog.

Tutorial: Adding Zipper Heads

I have said before that adding zipper heads to zipper tape is pretty easy. I don’t do it that often, so I always have to look it up. The main tutorial I use is Sara Lawson’s tutorial. Sara provides a ton of detail and I would advise watching it at least once. I am writing a quick tutorial so you can see another version.

Supplies:

Supplies required
Supplies required
Place zipper head face down
Place zipper head face down

1. Place your zipper head face down in your towel holder

2. Flip your zipper tape wrong side up. N. B. This means that both zipper tape and zipper head are facing in the same direction, wrong side up

3. Pull your zipper tape apart 3-4 inches and configure in a V formation

Make a V with the zipper tape
Make a V with the zipper tape

4. Carefully place each end of the zipper tape into each side of the zipper head

5. Push the tape in evenly until you can pull from the bottom

Completed zipper head installation
Completed zipper head installation

Voila! You did it!

In the future you can find this tutorial on the tutorials page.

 

Resources:

    • Natalie from Sew Hungry Hippie has a video tutorial using a jig she sells

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*N.B. : If you use a fork, you might want to get one at a thrift store and just use it for zippers rather than using one you eat with.

 

 

**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.

Installing Zippers Tips

One of the things that came up when I was making pouches over the weekend was the zippers. They are always a pain, so I made some changes tot he way I work.

Washaway Tape
Washaway Tape

Because of the video on making an internal zipper pocket, I was reminded of the washaway tape**. I have had this tape for awhile and use it sporadically, but need to be prompted, because I tend to forget about it.

I followed Sara’s directions exactly on the second one, which means that I lined up the tape with the edge of the zipper then pressed the fabric close to the zipper before I sewed. The second one came out much better than the first.

Small zipper foot
Small zipper foot

I dug out a zipper foot that I haven’t had luck with and really worked with it. For the first time I had success using the zipper foot. This was the small zipper foot that clicks on to my machine without the use of any screwdrivers. I was surprised that it actually worked this time. Perhaps I was doing something wrong before.

 

Taping zipper tapes
Taping zipper tapes

Next, the tape at the end of the zipper tape where the zipper opens, e.g. opposite the stop, is loose. Most patterns say to sew the tapes together, which is a hassle and mostly doesn’t work for me. Since the ends would be hidden inside the pocket, I decided that I would try  tape instead of sewing the end of the zipper together. I used regular  Scotch tape and it worked great. I didn’t have to rip out any stitches or deal with a scrunched up fabric and thread nest. It was also fast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.

Sewing Pleather

Ripping tissue paper off of pleather
Ripping tissue paper off of pleather

I have complained recently about the pleather I have used for the bottoms of the Ultimate Carry All Bags sticking to my machine bed. I thought of using tissue paper like I talk about in my Vinyl Tips & Tricks post, but didn’t do it until my Mom mentioned it as well.

Finally, when I was sewing the binding on to the exterior and lining, I used some tissue paper. It worked like a charm. I’ll put it in my bag of tricks.