As I said the other day, it is the practice of the group to make bags as thank yous for the BAMQG officers. I made all, but one of the bags for the main officers.
I really enjoyed last year at BAMQG. I thought Kelly started off strong and had some good challenges. Remember the Kelly Bag? I want to do that practice again and her technique of making a bag out of the practice really makes me want to do it. There is nothing like having a bunch of ugly muslin 12″ squares laying around to put the best of us off FMQ practice.
I got some Cotton + Steel and thought I would use some of it for her back along with the egg fabric I don’t remember the name of and some Bonnie and Camille on the inside and for the tie.
Claire’s Bag
Claire’s bag is much more lively. She is such a little dynamo that I wanted some cheerful fabric. Making her bag coincided with me rummaging through my multicolor fabric bin.
I really should do a review of the pattern. I made these from the Jeni Baker Drawstring Bag pattern, which is so popular now. They are relatively fast to make. We’ll see if I do a review.
This is a good project for other guilds as thank yous, because if you can get people to make the bags everyone else only had to bring a few small gifts. I never liked the idea of getting blocks as a thank you. Yes, you get a little of each person, but you have to deal with another UFO and their foibles in sewing. JMO YMMV, of course.
I have an idea to make the perfect work bag. I haven’t yet found a pattern out there, but with the right knowledge of techniques and an ok pattern, I can probably make something that will work.
After reviewing Big City Bags by Sara Lawson, I put the book in my database (I am a librarian after all!). In the course of testing the records and the search results, I came across Lisa Lam’s The Bag Making Bible and had to look through it for more ideas.
If you have this book and Big City Bags, you have everything you need to make almost any bag out there. Big City Bags by Sara Lawson has good techniques, but is mostly a project book. Lisa Lam‘s book focuses more on techniques, but has projects to go with each technique. The projects are not the focus of the book. In fact they are even hard to find, hidden as they are in the midst of detailed instructions for techniques.
One of the different aspects of this book is that the techniques build on each other. This is a more down and dirty, ‘here’s everything you need to know’ kind of book than Big City Bags. It goes from very basic (explaining parts of the sewing machine-pg.14) through intermediate (explaining a pattern with a glossary of terms) to advanced (modifying patterns). You will have to think, because skills or techniques you learn in one section are referred to again in another section.
On careful examination of the table of contents, I saw that the projects were, indeed, named and given a page number as a subheading under the main point/heading of the chapter. I like this idea, because by scanning the list of techniques, I can find projects that will illustrate the technique I want to learn.
The book is laid out in a pretty standard way: Table of Contents, Foreword and Introduction. The introduction has one line that explains the premise of the book “I have purposefully moved away from quick and easy bag projects because I believe that when you spend a little more time in creating something special you will cherish the results all the more.” This is a great description of the premise of the book.
The first sections after the above are all about the basics. They start with Basic Equipment. The author has good photos of the basic equipment, some of which I have never seen in a bag book. I like it that these unusual tools are included. I did wonder why no rotary ruler was included in the list, though a rotary cutter is included.
The sewing machine section includes some information on machine stitches and photos of the machine feet.
The next section is called Anatomy of a Bag, which covers all the aspects of a bag from parts you have heard of like flaps to parts like the gussets, which are less common.
The basics continue with ‘Getting Started’, which discusses using patterns, ‘Understanding Patterns’,’Fabric Preparation and Cutting,’ Modifying Patterns and then the book continues on to the techniques and projects. The ‘Understanding Patterns’ section is good also for garment sewing.
‘Choosing Fabrics’ is very complete. It includes a description of different types of fabrics and the pros and cons of each. The section talks about how best to use the fabrics for bags. This section has a subsection on choosing interfacing and interlining. Again, there are descriptions and definitions of different types and weights of interfacing.
I like the section called ‘Working with Colour and Pattern.’ The author has some beginner level suggestions. While there is no color wheel, the section gives the reader some suggestions about choosing colors as well as using pattern/motifs.
This is where the projects come in. The techniques are all associated with projects and the project teaches the reader those associated techniques. For example, in the Structure and Reinforcement section, there is a chart of ‘Volume Adding Features’. These are darts, pleats, etc and the chart tells the reader the benefits and suggested uses of each. The project photos have good detail shots and lots of instructions which, together, help understand how to use the featured technique while putting the project together.
The book has sidebar boxes throughout the book. The color and pattern section has boxes about using texture and sourcing fabrics. Some of the sections have a ‘Need to Know’, which covers important concepts that don’t fit into the other text.
I like the section on ‘Linings.’ It includes a chart of different types of pockets (charts are a good way to get a lot of information across quickly) as well as photos of the linings.
As with Big City Bags, zippers are covered really well. This book helps me understand what Sara Lawson was doing when I followed the directions for her Flush Zipper Pocket on the Petrillo Bag pattern. I was able to make the pocket from Sara’s excellent directions, but didn’t understand the underlying concept until I read this book. This is a great example of why these two books work really well together.
Information about zippers leaks over into the section called ‘Closures.’ Again, Lam includes a chart of different types of closures with benefits and suggested uses. There are photos different types of closures and how to insert them. I really liked the instructions on adding a pull tab to a zipper. This would have really helped me in some projects I have made recently.
Different types of trim, such as tassels, and edgings, such as piping, are also covered. Ready made handles and the different types of pockets that can be used are defined and instructions are provided.
I do think this book, and most bag books, could have benefited more from photos of the inside of the bags. I thought this, especially, when I saw The Organized Office Bag project. There are plenty of gorgeous pictures of the outside, but, frankly, the inside is heart of the matter for me. How many pockets are there?
This is a comprehensive book and would be a great addition to any bag maker’s library. It is a necessity for anyone who wants to understand bags and their components to an extent of designing or modifying patterns.
As I said in the previous post, I told you that I wanted to cover the raw edges and mid-week last week I had a few minutes over the course of a couple of nights. I started making binding for the inside and pinned it over the raw edges.
I used strips cut on the straight of the grain. I didn’t need to make bias strips, because I didn’t need to curve around anything that requiring some give.
The process I used to make the binding, very briefly, was to cut the strips, fold in half, then open and press the raw edges towards the center. Finally, I laid the pieces in a T, or cross, shape and pinned them to the bag. With that prep work done, I was able to find a time and just start sewing.
Sewing Binding
Pretty early on Sunday morning I put the bag under the machine and began sewing the binding down. It was so great to be able to start sewing right away. I thought this process would be awful and it really wasn’t. Yes, I had to sew slowly. Yes, I had to keep the handles and scrunched up bag body out of the way. Would the process have been better, if I had put this on before the top edge binding? It probably would have a looked just a bit better, but it really looks great.
Finished binding
I used thread to match the binding in the top of the machine and thread to match the outside of the bag in the bobbin. Yes, there are lines on the outside of the bag, but it doesn’t show much unless you look really hard. The Muggles won’t know.
So, I am really pleased with how this bag looks. The crosses look a little odd, but I like to think of it as a design element. I can try something else next time.
A little while ago I participated in Kelly’s monthly BAMQG Challenge, which was to quilt a half yard fabric sandwich. The goal ended up being to make a bag from this piece. I wasn’t entirely happy with the quilting, but I didn’t sincerely dislike it either. The quilted piece laid around for awhile, but it was on my mind. It is only recently that I made time to start the bagmaking part. Part of the delay was because I couldn’t understand and extrapolate out from Kelly’s excellent directions. You know me. Sometimes I can read and read and the words look like gibberish. She was very patient with me and agreed to give me one step at a time. Broken down I could do it.
Supplies:
1 yard of fabric (2 different half yard pieces will add interest)
1/2 yard of fabric for straps and other fiddley bits
12″ x 42″ (or WOF) ShapeFlex
12″ square of coordinating fabric for binding
batting slightly larger than 18″ wide to accommodate the half yards above
Sewing machine and supplies to machine quilt/free motion quilt
Layer and sandwich 2 half yards of fabric with batting
Full Piece Quilted
Free motion quilt piece as desired. Shown is the piece that I did back in April. I know pieces of fabric don’t magically quilt themselves and I am not saying they do. It took me some time, but it is good practice and this is a good use for those practice pieces. Go back to the previous post and look at the different quilting designs I used.
Kelly didn’t have me make the straps until after the bag was put together. I like to make all the fiddley bits first, so they are ready to go when I am on a roll making the bag and ready for them. That means: make the straps whenever you want. You should make them your favorite way. Here are the directions for making the straps that I used for this bag:
Cut 2 strips 6″ wide by WOF. You could make them 5.5″ and they would be a touch skinnier.
Cut 2 strips 5 3/4″ x WOF from ShapeFlex (If you make the straps skinnier, you need to adjust the size of the ShapeFlex. I cut it smaller to reduce bulk in the seams, which can get quite hefty without trying.
Press ShapeFlex to wrong side of fabric, following the manufacturer’s directions.
Fold each 6″ fabric backed piece in half and press well.
Open the pieces you just pressed and fold raw edges to the center.
Press folded edges.
Fold entire strap on original center fold again. Raw edges should be inside and strap should measure about 1.5″.
Optional: Depending on what you want to use the bag for, you can further line the straps with something like Timtex or Soft & Stable.
Topstitch along both edges very close to the edge. You can use a decorative stitch or two lines of straight stitching to add interest
Squared up Quilted Piece
Square up your quilted piece by trimming the excess batting and raw edges.
Fold trimmed piece in half RST* and sew along side and bottom edges ONLY. Only the top will be open. You will have a flat piece that looks like an oversized iPad cover.
Measure to Box the Corners
Box the corners. Kelly does a minimum of 2″ from the side seam. FYI: there is no seam on one side, so I pressed the fold and treated the folded part as a seam. I used my Creative Grids 4.5″x8.5″ ruler to try out different corner sizes. I ended up doing a 3″ box, using pins to try out the size and see what I liked. You can see in the photo that I was able to use the side and bottom measurements to help decide. I had to see how big the bag would be and how it work as a bag I actually used. Once I decided on the size of the boxed corner, I drew a pencil line across the corner to know where to sew. I placed a couple of pins across the drawn line to hold the bottom in place. Then I sewed on that line to make the box. in the picture, I sewed along the short end of the ruler from diagonal line to diagonal line using the center seam as the straight line.
Corners Boxed
Optional: Trim off the excess corners to reduce bulk. I like to do this because I don’t like the excess to interfere with my stuff once I start using the bag. Also, small stuff that migrates to the bottom of the bag gets tangled up with them. Since this bag doesn’t have pockets, small stuff will migrate.
Press raw seams open. You’ll have to stick the iron inside the bag.
This is the point where, when I make the next version, I will sew binding over the raw seams. If I knew someone with a serger, I would serge them, but I don’t, so binding it is. I could just leave the raw edges, but that just seems wrong. On this version of the bag, I did this step later, but it makes sense to do it after the corners, so there is not a lot of other stuff to worry about and you won’t have to fold the ends of the inside binding over, because you can cover the raw edges of the inside binding when the top binding is sewn.
Make a bias binding like you would for a quilt. You will need about 50″. I cut my square (see list of supplies) into 2.25″ wide strips on the diagonal. The Judy Martin Point Trimmer ruler makes it really easy to sew the strips together. I suppose you could use straight of the grain binding, but I think a bias binding works well.
Add binding
Bind the top, covering the edges of the binding that covers the inside raw edges (step above). I sewed along the bottom first, making sure I caught the underside as well as the top. When I finished I sewed along the top of the binding as well. I thought it made the bag look more finished and added some interest (must be my favorite term today). I used an extra piece of binding leftover from the Spiderweb quilt and I am glad I used something that mostly matched. On another version, I would plan ahead better and use a coordinating fabric or the strap fabric.
If you haven’t made your straps, make them now.
Test the length of the straps until they are right for your height. I used WonderClips at different lengths to find the right length, then I trimmed the original length to my custom length, which was about 36″.
Flatten the bag carefully so the edge of the side is folded. This means that the edge of the side measures an equal amount from the side seam to the edge of the side as is the top. Measure two inches from this fold.
Place a pin at 2″ that you just measured.
Measure 2″ down from the top and place a pin parallel to the top of the bag. This makes a half square where you will place your strap.
Fold the end of the strap 2″ up and place the folded edge right beneath the bottom of the binding.
Sew the straps to the bag, making a box with an X in the middle. Go around the edges and the X a few times.
Optional: After you sew on the straps, sew along the fake edge of the side (see step 14) from the top to about 4″ from the bottom. Do this on all sides to make the bag into a box.
You are finished! You have made the bag. Hooray!!!
A Variety of Notes:
Crazy as it sounds, I am now thinking of fabrics I can quilt that would look awesome in bag form. I know. I think I have lost mind.
I like my bags to have pockets, but I also don’t like the stitching to show through, so I didn’t put any in this bag. You could make a lining and add it before you sew on the binding, then you wouldn’t have to cover the raw edges with a binding. You could sew the pockets to the lining. You’ll have to figure the measurements out yourself. Of course, your beautiful quilting would be covered.
I love Sara’s Petrillo Bag pattern and have made two of my own. She also has a very sweet tone to her blog and I like reading it. I couldn’t resist this book in hopes that she would have more of the fun shapes and clever construction methods I found in the Petrillo Bag.
Several months ago, I picked the book up to read and review, made a bunch of notes and then put it down for a long time. Why? I don’t know. This is a great book and I should have reviewed it RIGHT away. If you only read through page 19 and never look at the projects, you will learn techniques that will be useful in other patterns and projects.
First, there is a whole section on interfacing. She explains the properties of and uses for various types of interfacing. This section also has a conversion chart from American brands to Vilene. This expands the usefulness of the book and patterns to our European friends. US readers can also use this chart when making European patterns that refer to Vilene in the materials list. I was considering making a needle case from a pattern where one of the supplies listed was Vilene. This chart would have been useful.
Throughout the book, Sara also gives hints. Such tidbits as what to use to reinforce magnetic snaps, along with other tips and tricks, are scattered in little boxes throughout the book.
After the chart, Ms. Lawson provides a narrative that includes more detail on each interfacing mentioned in the chart. She tells what she likes about each one and how she uses it. Sometimes a tip or trick on adhering the particular product to fabric is provided.
Next, there is a section called “Bag Making Techniques” (pg. 12). In this section, Sara gives detailed lessons on installing zippers. I have installed zippers, but, boy, am I glad I read the section of this book. In one part of this section she gives me the perfect way to deal with those stupid zipper ends. I don’t know why I didn’t think of her method before. Lawson also goes over making the same kind of pocket included in the Petrillo Bag pattern. By showing it separately, she gives readers the skills and provides space for the imagination so we can include it in projects of our own.
Magnetic straps, purse feet, O rings, D rings and lots of other hardware are also discussed, evaluated and defined with the same completeness as the zippers.
Sara also discusses leather handles, a topic I have never seen before. These are included in some of the projects, so tackling their peculiar requirements is prudent. I think these are an interesting addition to the patterns. I also think the manufacturers have not come out with enough colors. Many of the projects in this book, which use leather handles, have black handles rather than a color matching the fabric. It could be that Sara likes the black against some of the modern fabrics.
After explanations and diagrams concerning the the leather handles, the projects start. This book includes 12 projects: all bags of different sizes and shapes. The projects have wonderful names and are made from fabulous (modern) fabric. This section has some excellent attributes: there are at least two colorways shown for each bag. Also, the patterns, while not full-sized, are right after the directions, thus easy to find. I also like it that the finished size of the bag is included at the top of the pattern.
I would have liked to have read more about the inspiration for the bag with the pattern, but, perhaps, I am the only one who cares about such a thing.
There is no question in my mind that Sara is a genius when it comes to bag patterns. Her patterns are practical and fun. This book is beautiful to look at as well as useful. The strength of this book lies in the information before the patterns including installing zippers and how to use interfacing. As I read those pages (pg.8-19), my creative juices really started to flow.
I think you would appreciate this book. Go out and buy a copy!
Recently, Mom asked for something for her church auction. they raise money to pay off the student loans of the priests, presumably so the priests can adhere to their vow of poverty.**
Donation Jane Market Tote
I thought of this bag. It was, after all, almost done and meant I didn’t have to start a new project. Perfect. I started this bag before I started having machine problems. It was actually the straw that broke the camel’s back. I try not to hold that against it. Regardless, I had some decorative stitches to rip out. At Sew Day, Kelly did the job for me while I did a job for her. Then I just did another decorative stitch with the backup machine and finished it.
The difficulty with decorative stitches is that I am not familiar with the options available on my backup machine. I used almost all, if not all of the decorative stitches on my 9K to make gift bags. I don’t really need more gift bags and I am not that interested in making gift bags right now (Don’t get me wrong! I love them and think everyone should use them, but I have plenty and am over making them for the moment). That gift bag project was also an opportunity for me to try out all the decorative stitches. I learned:
how much thread each one requires
placement information
size
Making this tote bag was great and adding the decorative stitch was kind of a shot in the dark. The other variable was that my backup machine allows me to resize the stitches as well. I haven’t played much with that option, but it introduces a whole additional level of options to my choices.
I dove in and sewed the last bit, then gave it to Mom who was thrilled. I might make something else, if I have a chance, since the auction isn’t until December. What I would love is to make something that would blow their socks off and have people fighting over. I would be a hero. A quiltmaking hero and that would be awesome.
**My mom is Greek Orthodox and I have no idea if their priests have to take a vow of poverty. I do know that their salary has to come from the congregation and that is daunting. I don’t see the priest getting $90k per year.
You have probably noticed that I make a lot of bags. Mostly I give them away. There are only a few (Springy bag, Jane Market totes) that I actually carry around. Part of that is that I am one person and one person only needs so many bags. Still, I do like to make them.
As I have said in the past, I carry a bunch of stuff with me to work in a bag on public transport. The bags have to be sturdy, have lots of pockets, be on the large side and relatively stain resistant. The bags I carry to work have been Timbuktu bags for the past several years. They work but they aren’t perfect. They are large enough, have enough pockets, but they look like everyone else’s bag. Also, I am kind of over the backpack thing with my work clothes.
When I made the Petrillo Bag, I did so because I liked the shape, mostly.
In the case of making the bag, I don’t have control over the finish, but I can choose the colors and pattern. I probably have an equal, if different, amount of control over color the as I do if I bought a bag in the store.
Using the ShapeFlex plus layers of fabric plus interfacing. That is a lot of layers to go through and my backup machine wasn’t happy. I could make a better, sturdier bag if I had a tougher machine, perhaps an industrial machine or pseudo industrial machine. There is no way I am even going to consider buying an industrial machine, but I still want to make bags. I may never do it, but there is a place where you can go and rent table saws and welding things…Tech something. They have industrial machines there. Perhaps I will go and see if I can use theirs.
I worry most about setting the bag in something and not being able to get the stain out or having the stain leak through the bag. I like my bags nice and when you take public transport, it is hard to keep things nice. This is why Sheldon has ‘bus pants.’ I tried using the fusible laminating stuff on the Scrap Lab Backpack and that worked OK. It isn’t like using regular oilcloth. I suppose I could just make a new bag if the old one got stained or boring…
I finished the Poppy Petrillo Bag on June 6, 2014, then immediately left town with it for a conference. I had about a gazillion things to do that day, but managed a few minutes to finish the bag. I wanted to take it with me, because my Sherpani carry-on is too heavy and the straps are not that comfortable. It helps if I don’t bring everything I own, but let’s set that aside for a moment.
As I told you the other day, I made some changes to the bag to make it better to actually use. I liked using this bag, especially with the changes. I liked the straps, the size and the weight. It still isn’t the perfect bag, but it was really a good bag. It is lightweight and it fit well under the airplane seat, it was comfortable to carry and held the right amount of stuff. I also really like the shape.
I think there are other things the bag needs. More pockets for one and at least one outside pocket for a water bottle (or soda, if you drink soda) and the conference program. Given Sara’s excellent and stylish design of the bag, I am not sure it is possible to make all the changes I require.
Detail of Gusset I added to make the bag bigger, if necessary
The BAMQG retreat was over Memorial Day Weekend. I wasn’t able to attend on Friday, but I had been cajoled for a couple of years and decided to join as a commuter this year. I really had a good time and will post some more of the fun in a different post. Short bit of advice: if you have the opportunity to go on retreat, GO! You get a lot done and really get an opportunity to get to know your guild-mates much better.
After working on the mystery quilt, I switched to working on the Petrillo Bag. This a Sew Sweetness (Sara Lawson) pattern. Pam and I worked on a Petrillo Bag-along last year. Since then, I had wanted to make another with some changes.
Since I commute to work by train and do not have a car at work to store stuff, I have to carry my stuff or leave it at work. Thus, I have developed very specific ideas about what I like in my bags.
Part of what I like in a bag is security. I don’t want people reaching into my bag and grabbing stuff out. Thus, the bag has to have some kind of flap and closure. I also like lots of pockets and a light colored interior so I can see all the stuff inside. Easy, quick access is also a must.
One of the things I didn’t like about the Petrillo Bag, as written in the pattern, was the skinny top. I liked the look a lot, but the functionality needed to be improved for my use. The side panels are shaped like ice cream cones. After you insert them the top access is very thin. This does help with security, but it makes it hard to stick stuff in and pull it out.
I had been thinking about changes to the pattern in my mind for awhile and had started cutting out pieces several months ago. As you know this bag has been on my to do list for awhile.
Petrillo Bag back
After being frustrated with another project, I started working on this bag and was able to get most of the outside done on Sunday, late, and Monday at the retreat. It is a good thing I was commuting, because I switched lining fabric midstream and was able to get some Michael Miller red with white Dumb Dots from home and start recutting lining pieces. I’ll use the previous lining choice for another bag.
I got to the point Sunday night that I was ready to construct the gussets and on the drive home, I turned over the process in my head, so I really felt ready to tackle it on Monday when I returned to my sewing machine at the Retreat.
A number of people at the Retreat had never heard of Soft & Stable, so we had a little talk about that. Many are not bag makers and since I never heard of it before the Petrillo Bag pattern, I wasn’t surprised.
When I got home I worked on the lining and, as of this writing, I am ready to start putting the lining together. I am not sure what I will do about the side panels of the lining. I don’t want to put another set of clips on the inside. Elastic, maybe?
I don’t know if this will be the perfect bag as I have just realized that I forgot to put on side pockets for a water bottle or my cell phone, but I will try it out and see if I like it enough to use it or if I will give it as a gift.
I am glad this thing is completed. It was a pain from start to finish, but it will be cute for my young friend.
I think it will be perfect for a beach bag or some such for a teenager. I do think a teen would like it better.
I think I am not liking it that much because of all the problems I had with hardware. The last part was the*&^%$ grommets. Dritz grommets, I think, are not that good in terms of quality. DH helped me and we had problems putting them in. He had to pound like a crazy man and we ruined 2 of them in the process.
Still, the adjustments I made to the sizes worked out and I did a nice job finishing, so I think it looks ok. One friend told me my standards are too high. I’ll keep that under advisement. 😉
Some weeks ago, I saw a backpack in the Scrap Lab article in an issue of Quilts & More. The pattern is also on the web on Allpeoplequilt.com. It captured my attention in a “hhmmmm interesting” kind of way. After meeting a young friend at one of DH’s events, I decided to sew it for her. I wanted to make it, but I didn’t want to keep it, so this was a great solution. The Fat Quarter Shop, at that time, had a fabric kit (no hardware), which I bought.
Scrap Lab Backpack Bag Body
Last weekend I started on the project. It has a lot of steps and the directions were not always completely clear *to me*. I know magazines have limited space.
The pattern calls for fat quarters to create the bag body. That is what came in the kit. The pattern also said that I should cut 2″x21″ strips from the FQs. The problem turned out to be that the FQs were not 21″ wide even before I squared them up. It made no sense to me since that is what I understood the whole point of the Scrap Lab is – to use a small amount of fabric. I worked at adjusting all the measurements to accommodate this problem.
Sewing Strips
The backpack requires two panels, like the one made from strips (shown above). In order to keep the strips in order, I laid them out on my design wall and sewed them in order. I found that, in order to keep them in the same order, I had to sew them in the same order, but upside down. For example, I always placed the strip I wanted to end up lower on the panel on top to sew it.
I was further disappointed when I also found that the half yard of background was not enough for all the pieces that needed to be cut. I am not sure if I cut wrong. I didn’t see a cutting layout (like they have in garment sewing), so I cut the largest pieces first, but still did not have enough. Shifting gears deftly, as I did not what a ‘lack’ of fabric to derail the project completely, I chose a different fabric for the pocket, which will look nice and will solve that problem. All in all these fabric problems were unexpected and, as I said, disappointing.
I worked on it on Sunday this past weekend. It has a 1/2″ seam allowance, so I couldn’t really make progress on my various leaders and enders projects without the 1/4″ foot on the machine. That was a little frustrating.
I did make good progress on the backpack, though. I have the straps and drawstring done. I have the bag outside and the lining done. I wasn’t able to finish it, because I didn’t have a slider buckle/triglides. I also didn’t really understand what they were even after searching out a photo on the web.
The slider buckle/triglides turned out to be pretty hard to find. I found some nice ones in the UK and Australia. Amazon has packs of 50. My local Joann and Beverly’s had none. ERGH! Monday, after work, I went to Britex and they had them there. They usually have weird stuff like this. With bags being so popular, I was surprised that these were so hard to find.
It was good that I went to Britex, though, as the people there actually know something about what they sell. We looked at our own bags and the pieces I was thinking of buying and kind of talked through where the parts went on the bag. It was a good experience.
I think I have said before that I prefer to make all the fiddly pieces first – straps, pockets, etc. This pattern is not written that way, so it was a little hard to backtrack and make the straps and drawstring when I was on a roll with getting the larger pieces of the bag done.
There were some directions on the pattern that were confusing or poorly explained. I was able to figure out making the pocket, even though I wasn’t familiar with the type of pocket. Once I figured out that it was a 3D pocket, I thought the method was clever. The pattern leaves the inside edges raw. The method could have been improved somewhat by finishing the inside edges, which I did even though the directions didn’t say to do it. The location of a 3D pocket is a little odd, I thought, as whatever you put in it will pull the whole bag down from the shoulders.
I had some trouble applying the pocket to the bag. The directions just say to topstitch the pocket on to the body of the bag. They do not take into account the corners which are multiple layers thick. Since the pocket is 3D, I could have used some more detailed directions and additional photos on going around the corner.
I also thought the pattern on the web did not use the web to maximum effect. I would have had the PDF, as they do, since it is easy to print. I would have also linked out to videos showing how to apply the pocket, how to add the grommets and other handy hints. These videos could be used over and over for many different patterns and would drive traffic to their site.
It could be that this pattern was perfectly written and the problems were all user error. I am a visual person and learn better with lots of pictures and when people show me how to do something.
I went back and forth about whether or not I should post this on my blog before the BAMQG party, but I have so little to post these that I decided to go for it. I don’t know all of you as well as I would like, but I don’t think the recipient is a reader. Perhaps she will be after receiving the gift.
I agreed to make a Secret Santa gift for the BAMQG Holiday Exchange. It was hanging over my head, so I decided that Saturday would be the day to start. I actually cut out all of the pieces on Friday night and put most of the interfacing on as well, so the sewing went pretty easily.
I decided to make another Jane Market Tote for the gift. It is a good pattern – useful and nicely shaped. I am also familiar with it since I made over a dozen of them since I bought the pattern. The other bonus was that a shopping bag was on the giftee’s list.
Perfect.
As I said, I cut out the pieces on Friday night. I also decided to try adding some ShapeFlex stabilizer to see if that would give it some body.
As an aside: Have I said how much I like ShapeFlex? I love it. It is so easy to work with. It is not thick. Now, I am almost out again and am now thinking of buying a bolt. Crazy?
Anyway, I was able to put ShapeFlex over all the pieces except one, so I was really ready to sew on Saturday morning. So, Saturday morning, which was really about 11am since I slept so much, I sewed. The bag went together really well. I tried very hard to make it look nice. I used a star pattern on my machine to finish the top of the bag. I also put the handles inside rather than outside after the bag is finished, as the pattern suggests.
It is a nice bag, but I also decided to make a little needlecase and put that in the bag as well. I know it is not necessary, but I have some leftover scraps from the bag. I also found a pattern in Modern Patchwork for a needlecase that doesn’t look too difficult. Stay tuned for that.
Sara of Sew Sweetness kindly asked me to participate in her Purse Palooza, as I have mentioned. Today is my day. Find my review on the Sew Sweetness blog TODAY! Go leave a comment so Sara knows how popular I am. 😉
A Day in the Park Backpack
I decided to, finally, make and review A Day in the Park Backpack Tote by Liesl Gibson. It is a few years old and I was relieved to see the pattern is still available at the Oliver+S website. I was pretty excited when I bought the pattern and I didn’t want you to get excited and then not be able to buy it. Also, it is about time I made it.
One of the reasons I bought the pattern in the first place is that I liked the verticality of this bag. Vertical bags are good for commuting as they don’t hit people when you walk up the stairs from the train. The size ended up being good-not so large that I would hurt my shoulder, but a nice size for commuting with a snack, a book, and a few odds and ends. Lunch wouldn’t fit unless it was bills in your wallet. 😉
First off, the look of this pattern reminded me of the Vogue and McCall’s patterns we buy to make clothes. I am not surprised as Liesl Gibson designs children’s clothes. I don’t think she has created many bags or small accessories.
The pattern is in a paper envelope with newsprint instructions. The pattern pieces are printed on tissue-type paper. I am always a little scared of the tissue paper patterns as I am afraid they will rip and be useless. I find it interesting how pattern expectations (plastic envelope with folded 8.5″ sheets inside) have changed since I bought this pattern.
Sara suggested a couple of ideas to get the review started. I don’t have any problem finding things to say, but I thought these were good ideas, so I will include them. Sara asked:
What fabric/supplies were needed to make the bag?
What did you think of the illustrations and instructions?
Did you make any modifications to the pattern?
What Difficulty Level did you think this pattern was at?
Fabric and Supplies
There is a complete fabric and supply list that includes 11 items. You will use all of them if you make the bag as directed. I didn’t find this to be a bag you can decide to make at 11pm on Saturday night and finish to take to brunch with friends on Sunday morning. There are some specialty hardware items that I don’t keep around. I made a special trip to Britex to purchase most of them and Britex is not open at 11pm on Saturday night. 😉 I am sure they are also available online.
I found it difficult to find the O rings required for the pattern. I ended up buying two key rings that were on sale at Joann just in case. After visiting 3 stores and multiple online sites, I ended up using them. They were a little small so make sure you buy O rings on the large end of the spectrum described on the package instructions.
O Ring Option
I found this package in the beading aisle at Michael’s, which was another option. I didn’t really want to buy 20 O rings, though. I don’t plan on making 10 of these bags.
In the finishing process, DH was helping me with the rivets. I told him about the O ring problem and he suggested a hardware store. He said Home Depot and Lowe’s are more home improvement and don’t have much hardware, but a real old fashioned type hardware store where you can buy individual pieces of metal thingy-ma-bobs might be a good source. I’ll have to check it out. I have heard of other quiltmakers finding supplies at hardware stores, but I never think of it.
Additional Supplies I Used
Aurifil 2250, a red, for the top stitching.
Free Spirit/Joel Dewberry Notting Hill Midnight Poppies (this is home dec weight)
Soft & Stable (instead of the canvas for the interfacing)
Good Morning by Me and My Sister for Moda (same fabric I used in the Star Sampler) for the lining
Pellon #100R Vinyl Fuse for the base
Shape Flex fusible interfacing
Saral paper to transfer markings from pattern to fabric. You might need two colors if you use a light and a dark. I wrote a post about Saral Paper that gives more information.
Directions
My first thought about the directions were that they were long and confusing. I always think that, though, because it is hard for me to read through the directions of something and understand what they mean until I start working through the steps. I am much better at figuring things out or being shown techniques BUT the former strategy doesn’t work for bags and the latter wasn’t available.
In the end, I thought there were a few things that could have been improved on the directions, but, in general, the directions were good.
There is a nice little chart that tells what to cut out of which fabric. In the chart, they list Primary Fabric, Contrast Fabric, Lining, Canvas. One immediate problem was that I didn’t know what pieces of the bag were going to be made out of which fabric. The section titled “Materials Needed” cleared that up a bit, but I was still unsure how the canvas (used for stabilizer) would be used until I read much further down the directions. I would have liked more of an explanation of the whys and wherefores of the fabric/supplies choices as well as a list of possible substitutes. For example, I would have liked to have known why the designer chose canvas rather than another kind of stabilizer. Look and feel? Weight? Availability? Cost?
It occurred to me that the pattern might not have been appropriate places for the whys I needed, so I went to Flickr and searched for “A Day in the Park” backpack. I found a Flickr group of these bags. You can get a good idea of the placement from the random photos and the photos in the group. I got a better idea of what pieces belonged in which fabrics. Hooray for Flickr! Nota bene: Please note that I said a better ideanot that I knew exactly. There was some variation in the way pieces and fabrics were referenced, or, at least, in the way I understood them to be referenced. I would like to see the different supplies referred to in the same way on all of the pieces, the chart, the supply list and the instructions.
I didn’t find much on the Oliver+S blog through web searches, but there was a post about why she created the pattern (sewing class). I did see that shops who are teaching classes could, at the time (don’t know about now), purchase packs of the hardware along with the pattern. While that would not have worked for me, I could have called to see if the packs were available for purchase by non-wholesale customers.
I also saw one forum post, which had some helpful information about making the straps. I didn’t explore to see if there were more posts.
Joel Dewberry Notting Hill Pristine Poppy (midnight)
Once I decided which fabric to use (Joel Dewberry Notting Hill Midnight Poppies, home dec weight), and after I washed it, I got started on the cutting. The cutting was a bit daunting, like the Petrillo Bag, simply because there are a lot of pieces involved. [Nota bene: when I cut out the second one, I cut the main fabric, then the lining and stabilizer fabrics that went with that main fabric piece and the cutting seemed less daunting.] I persevered and found the chart of how much of each fabric, etc. to cut to be very helpful. I was able to use it as a check to ensure I had enough of everything cut properly.
Making the Petrillo Bag was still fresh in my mind, so I decided use some of the supplies from that project. Since I didn’t have the canvas and don’t like floopy bags, I decided to use Soft & Stable instead of the canvas. I knew I was taking a risk. I usually like to make things as per the instructions the first time through, then start making changes if I make the bag again. I have enough bag making experience and I wasn’t doing anything completely crazy, so I decided it wouldn’t be completely crazy to use Soft & Stable.
The other thing I did was use iron-on vinyl for the base. I have been wanting to do it for the bottom of bags for awhile and this was a good opportunity. Pam did it first and gave me courage. The Base pieces on the A Day in the Park Backpack tote were small, so it was a good test. They came out pretty well, but, mid-process, the vinyl was stickier than I expected. I used Pellon #100R Vinyl Fuse. I used an applique pressing sheet on my ironing board and the vinyl release paper on the top. If I had been able to find my second applique’ pressing sheet, I would have used that on top. Nothing came off on my iron. Remember to cut the Base piece a little large, apply the vinyl, then trim the fabric with vinyl to the size of the pattern. This will avoid any issues with shrinkage.
I lined all of my lining pieces with Shape Flex fusible interfacing,to help prevent floop. Floop is bad on the lining also, because it means that the inside pockets aren’t strong enough to hold your stuff, and pens, etc can flip out of your bag. I felt that having iron-on interfacing would work fine and give the pieces some added body. It also saved me time and used a product I already had on hand.
I also didn’t want to baste all of the pieces I needed to cut. I used the WonderClips to help prevent the need to baste. They are too thick to sew over, but keep all the layers together with no problem.
I don’t think the main fabric really needed interfacing since I was using home dec weight fabric, but I put it on anyway. I haven’t used a lot of home dec fabric, so I was not 100% confident. As I said, there is very little out on the web about this pattern so I didn’t have a lot of information and experience to choose from when looking at what other people did. FreeSpirit and Joel Dewberry both replied to my question about washing the home dec fabric, which was GREAT!
Instructions
I thought the instructions were detailed enough. The way the pattern is written makes it clear that there is a certain level of knowledge expected. I would make several bags, including something as complicated as the Petrillo Bag before tackling this bag. In the blog post I referenced above, this pattern is designated as an advanced beginner pattern. I think that is optimistic. Not to discourage beginners, but there are a lot of steps, a lot of supplies, including a zipper, and sewing through many, many layers. I’ll defer to Liesl Gibson, but would categorize this pattern as Intermediate.
The instructions were a little hard to follow. I think they needed a bit more testing by random makers with a variety of intermediate to advanced experience. The more I got done, the easier it was to navigate through the pattern, but the designer should revise it for consistency with terminology and add some additional explanation, especially at the beginning.
Inside A Day in the Park Backpack Tote
The instructions didn’t say how to put in a zipper (I don’t necessarily think they should), so make sure you know how to do that before starting the bag. Instead of making a zipper pocket, you could make two of the lining panels with the appliqued pocket. I do think that the directions for the appliqued pocket don’t tell the maker how to apply it in a nice way. The finishing isn’t very nice looking and I went around the pocket twice to make sure that it stayed on, if I put something heavy in it.
The fabric I used for the interior wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice again. I like it, but it frays. Definitely use a light colored fabric for the inside of your bags when making your own. A light colored lining makes it much easier to find things in the bottom of your bag. I am using a black on white for the second version.
Finished A Day in the Park Backpack Tote
I am pleased with how the bag came out.
Things I Liked
No errors in the pattern
Shape of bag
The directions on how to make the zipper pocket. It came out really well
If I Made this Bag Again
I would try it with the canvas as the stabilizer
I would eliminate the facing and magnetic closure at the top and add a flap instead
I would add a larger pocket, such as a file folder pocket on the back
I would add a messenger bag type strap and not make the backpack straps
I would use a slightly larger seam allowance on the lining as cutting it per the instructions make it a bit large for the size of the outside of the bag. Alternatively, I could cut the pieces a little bit smaller
Leave a larger opening in the lining to turn the bag, especially if I used the Soft & Stable again. The Soft & Stable takes up more space and was kind of a problem to turn using the opening size indicated in the pattern
The lining bottom is made of two pieces sewed in the middle. I would try to cut one entire piece rather than two pieces. It is the lining, so who really cares, but I think it would look better and be one less step
Modifications to Materials
Iron-on interfacing (Shape Flex) instead of basting on interfacing
Soft & Stable instead of canvas
WonderClips instead of basting
I have already started a new version of this bag with the modifications described above. I am not very far along, so stay tuned.
Thanks to Sara for inviting me to join Purse Palooza. I really appreciated the opportunity to make a bag that had been on my list for awhile and write about it. Check out the other bags that will be shown in the next two weeks.
I am happy to be participating in Purse Palooza this year with a special bag sewing pattern review! Here’s how the event works:
1. Every weekday from September 30th – October 25th, there are at least 2 amazing guest bloggers on the Sew Sweetness site scheduled to share with you a purse sewing pattern review. None of the purses reviewed from the event last year are being reviewed again, so these will be fresh sewing pattern reviews! Each review will contain detailed information about what the reviewer thought about the sewing pattern, modifications made, what kind of interfacing used, and more! There are a few technique and product review posts sprinkled in as well.
This is a great way to get inspired to make the bag you have always wanted to make. Having a buddy really helps. Remember when Pam and I did the Petrillo Bag-Aong?
Aeroplane Bags
2. Even more exciting…THERE WILL BE A GIVEAWAY EVERY WEEKDAY DURING THE EVENT! That’s right, 20 GIVEAWAYS!
3. At the end of the event, you will get a chance to show me your purse in order to win some amazing prizes! Of course, international entries are welcome too!
1. Check out all the purse pattern reviews throughout the month and get inspired to sew up a purse of your own!
2. Link up your completed purse on the Purse Palooza 2013 pageBETWEEN SEPTEMBER 30th AND NOVEMBER 11th. Your purse must be created and photographed between those dates; purses made prior to September 30, 2013 will be disqualified. The purse may be of your own design, or made from a sewing pattern. You can link from Flickr, your blog post, or wherever else you host your photos.
3. There is no limit to how many purses you may enter, as long as they were made between September 30th and November 11th. Only one link-up per purse please.
*Note: Besides bags and purses, for this event also acceptable are clutches, backpacks, wallets, etc.
Greenbacks Wallet Trio
Prizes
This year, there will be 1st-4th prize winners chosen from all those that submit a purse during the event. There will also be a randomly-drawn winner out of everyone who enters!
1st prize – 4th prize will receive an AWESOME prize pack courtesy of Pat Bravo, genius fabric designer extraordinaire! The prize packs will each include 3 Pat Bravo sewing patterns (La Boheme Skirt, Barcelona Bag, and Capri Bag), a pack of Pat Bravo Aurifil Threads (thread pack may vary, as there are 3 different packs), and 10 Pat Bravo fat quarters (fat quarters may vary).
In addition, the 1st prize – 4th prize winners will also receive a copy of Sara Lawson’s new book, Big-City Bags!! The book releases November 5th, and you can pre-order your book now!
Retail value of each prize pack: $127.
There will also be one randomly-drawn winner out of all purses entered, and this winner will receive a $50 gift certificate to Sara’s publisher, Martingale (as well as a copy of her new, not-yet-released book, Big-City Bags!).
Retail value of prize pack: $77.
Judging
Purse Palooza will be judged this year by Kay Whitt of Serendipity Studio. Kay writes the most stylish and fun-to-sew clothing patterns and bag patterns out there.
Thank you to all of the wonderful sponsors that are supporting this event!
Quick peek: There are a few things that I like about this book without doing any in depth reading yet. I really like the Spicy Girl Messenger Bag, the author’s use of Wonderclips in her (their?) process and the fun designs.
I have been thinking about Pam’s comment about the Petrillo bag being too large for her as a handbag. I don’t remember if she made this comment on her blog or podcast. Podcast, probably. Anyway, this comment has been on my mind, because of the way I use bags larger than a handbag – the ‘class’ of bags I would call totes.
I take public transportation a lot, and when I drive, I try to group my errands so that I can take the car out one time even if I make multiple stops. I don’t mind driving, but it isn’t very convenient (traffic, parking, my lack of patience) all the time. Also, it wouldn’t be my first choice of activities if I had my choice between sewing and driving (in my fantasy world, I would have a driver at my beck and call).
This practice means that I often have stuff (library books, forms I signed for school, letters and packages I need to mail) I need to drop off at one place, bring with me to another place, etc. Instead of dumping all the stuff in the trunk and then putting it in and taking it out of one bag, I put the stuff for different stops in different totes and grab the one I need at the appropriate stop.
This might seem like tote bag overkill, but it allows me to get everything sorted out in my house and gives me a justification** for making as many tote bags as I want. 😉 Further, making as many tote bags as I want gives me a reason to buy yards and yards of beautiful fabric (Philip Jacobs, I am looking at you!) to make more tote bags.
All of which brings me to Purses Bags Totes. I really like the Jane Market Tote which I would consider a classic shopping style bag. However, there are many, many fabulous tote bag patterns in this world and I intend to make as many of them as I can. The authors of Purses Bags Totes really have a fun sense of style. Fabric notwithstanding, the pleats, angled zippers and interesting cut out shapes really make the patterns contained in this book different and interesting.
The Cutie Backpack (and I don’t even really mind the name), pg.57, has a wonderful quarter circle pocket on the outside. Their bag, called, simply, Tote Bag, pg.73, would be great for shopping similar to the Jane Market Tote. It is a little different and would add some interest to the drudgery that shopping can be. Imagine people stopping you and asking you about your bag.
The Citrus Handbag, pg.11, reminds me of the Aeroplane bag by Sew Sweetness. It is a little smaller, but would make an excellent coordinating handbag with the Aeroplane Bag, if you made them with similar fabrics.
The weird part about this book is that there is barely any introduction. The General Instructions, pg.4, page is a few paragraphs long, then the authors launch into making pockets. I see that the header of the first pocket page also says “General Instructions,” which leads me to believe that is one big section. I would have liked a paragraph introducing the layout of the book that told me they were providing general instructions on pockets and the pockets could be interchanged with the different projects. I am assuming that is what they mean, but who knows?
The book comes with a CD and I have no idea what is on the CD. Yes, I can look at it and will later, but nowhere does it say that the patterns are on the CD. I would have liked to see a list or a note in each pattern saying “full sized patterns are on the CD; print using…”.
The pictures are really good, as far as I can tell without making one of the bags. Some of the handle and bias tape making techniques could be adapted and used for other bags because of the detailed photos enhanced by instructions.
I like the charts used to explain cutting and fusing directions. They are very clean.
All in all I like this book and see a few bags I would like to try to make. I am definitely putting Purses, Bags, & Totes on my Amazon wish list.
